Eternal sunsets on the Cape
White cubes of adobe and lime are silhouetted against the sky. We are in Black ones, a fishing paradise hippie reminiscences where they only live 350 souls.
At least from September to June; in July and August, the smell of maresia -this is what the canaries call the air charged with marine humidity- is mixed with the sweet aroma of the protective cream of tourists, who come to meet the sun in one of the more particular natural parks Of the peninsula.
** Cabo de Gata-Níjar ,** with its tongues of volcanic earth plunging into the sea, with its dramatic roads drawing curves in the cliffs, It is a landscape jewel that is difficult to resist. But, this time, we don't want to monopolize everything, get tired, do kilometers and kilometers to cross off each one of its highlights from our list or concentrate on its large municipalities and its endless party possibilities: we settle for what comes to us from her indomitable beauty, that will not be little.
Our goal is to become one with the pitas that sway in the wind, merge with his character peaceful observers.
In this landscape nobody knows how to say "stress"
THE SHELTER
The Hotel Spa Cala Grande camouflages itself in the profile of the town thanks to its traditional architecture: square and pure white volumes, orange stone accents, desert vegetation. From their windows they see the pool and the sea, and you sense that easy life of the summer vacations before, those in which it was not uncommon to end meeting all the guests of the accommodation.
Exactly that will happen here: on the second day, between the breakfast Fruit Trays, we will already have familiar faces smiling at us from behind the croissant. Because the Cala Grande is not one of those giant tomes that populate the Spanish coasts; it's a small hotel, of people who speak softly, in which it is impossible to get stressed because there is too many bathers in the garden or in the spa, for which, in fact, it is necessary to reserve.
Take a good book to pass it around the Balinese beds, the hammocks and the king size mattress of the room. But it's okay if you don't finish it; most likely I caught your dream between its pages, cradled by the murmur of the water and the sea breeze. Do not be alarmed by it, overcome the horror vacui that reigns in the 21st century: forget about the "I have to" it is precisely, the objective.
Traditional architecture nestled in the landscape
THE BANQUET
in the black, fish is king. The best is eaten at The Palm , a marine inn with a terrace that practically hangs over the sea. Their rice dishes and salads are also worth a bite, and the staff care, a good tip: you will not find anything like it in the whole town. Reservation is essential. When you do, notice that you want to sit as close as possible to the Mediterranean , and it has enough space on the mobile to capture the stamp.
If what you are looking for is signature cuisine, you have another option: go to The Redfish , in Pozo de los Frailes (20 minutes by car from the hotel) . There, you will enjoy a small menu that conjugates Mediterranean and exotic flavors, and you will be served with exquisite warmth by the staff, who will do everything possible to accommodate your tastes and will explain true passion each of the dishes. Reservations are essential, as their cozy lounges of old home are usually full.
For an even quieter night, of those of dine in a bathrobe on the hotel terrace, the best thing to do is to order take away from the pizzeria Il Capriccio , Neapolitan owners. your kitchen is exquisite and abundant, and their prices, adjusted, especially considering that on this shore everything tends to overprice.
eat over the sea
THE WALK
We said that the beach is a few minutes from the hotel; the same thing happens with the promenade , from which they depart seductive little streets full of charming little bars, such as Black Hill . Stand at the feet of your turquoise windows to have a beer in the process of freezing while you sway your heels to the rhythm of its elegant music and always cheerful.
opposite is Wilhelmina , one of those perfect stores to get in tune with the air of free love that is breathed in the town, where it is not uncommon to see old men with dreadlocks , dogs that take care of themselves and young people plagued with earrings selling crafts . The wave of long dresses and summer prints extends to other stores, such as Belle's trunk or the ** Gata Workshop **; rummage through its racks until you find those fabrics that always remind you of this summer.
mediterranean walk
THE ESCAPE
A few steps from the hotel is the beach, of pebbles and sand , not too comfortable. From there boats leave for the San Pedro Cove , hippie redoubt and squat turned into tourist attraction.
for not having that soft golden sand that we expect from an oasis, and although we have stated that we do not want to embark on a busy tour of the park, we propose a small getaway: to the nearby Playazo, in Rodalquilar.
Its crystal clear waters can be reached perfectly by car In addition, it has a nudist corner -usually to the south- and has the plus of views of both the San Ramon Castle, an 18th century fortification, as well as the spectacular cliffs of the molata . However, in July and August, it is better to refrain from your visit if you are misanthrope : ease of access promotes agglomeration. For these cases, it is preferable to start walking towards one of the most hidden shores of the Cape, such as Cala Raja , or even, if you like to drive, go along the sea until you find that haven of peace that you configure the ideal postcard of our vacation.
El Playazo: Miles of golden sand and turquoise waters