Alberto Closas and Amparo Soler Leal in 'La Gran Familia' (1962), pure Madrid Christmas
The Christmas He demands it with ** Madrid clichés ** that, often forgotten among so much novelty, are the ones that really make this city never lose its charm.
WHERE TO EAT
revolt house _(Burners, 3) _
There is no Christmas route through the center of Madrid without a stop at this classic of classics . Small and always full of hungry neighbors who, at the bar or the couple of tables served by uniformed waiters in white shirts, toast between glasses of peleón wine and the stars of the house: some slices of battered cod, simple and very delicate, to devour in two bites. heaven was this.
savior house _(Barbieri, 12) _
Motion right now so that establishments like this never disappear. Not even its bullfighting atmosphere, its waiters in jackets and two dishes to remember : its oxtail and its breaded hake. To cry.
His oxtail and battered hake are ten
beer _(San Miguel Square, 2) _
Always behind the bar in a modest place in front of the St. Michael's Market , they find Carlos and his famous tortilla. It may not be the most mediatic in the capital –and we still can't explain why–, but It is one of the favorites of the people of Madrid and the one that escapes from the crowds. In addition, it is just two steps from the traditional Christmas market in the Plaza Mayor.
Ricla Wineries _(Knivesmen, 6) _
Specialists in tap vermouth and in creating the traditional atmosphere that always deserves a walk around Puerta del Sol. Its tasty anchovies in vinegar and meatballs –which the owners cook in their home, just above the premises– are a delight.
Don't even think about going right after you go shopping for gifts, because the place is minimal and, if not, we won't all fit.
Convent of the Carboneras _(Elbow, 3) _
In this 17th century convent, the vow of closure that the nuns who inhabit it have promised continues to be fulfilled. Ring the bell on its facade and, after passing through a couple of corridors and a patio, place your heavenly "order" of artisan cookies , –from snowy to naranjitos and mantecados de yolk– through a lathe. The best kept secret in Madrid.
Bodegas Ricla, a classic for tap vermouth
** Angelica Cafe ** _(Segovia, 9) _
If renew or die is the premise, here they have followed the first option to give new life to the Coffee of the Nuncio , a mythical meeting point of the XIX century. His change is a commitment to good and healthy breakfasts, as well as for coffee, roasted in Malasaña . all courtesy of Deluz & Co. ., also behind the restaurants La Carmencita and Celso y Manolo.
San Gines _(Passage of San Ginés, 5) _
Every day and at all hours, batons, churros and cups of hot chocolate Freshly made they arrive mounted on huge trays thanks to waiters worthy of a monument who control the room like no one else.
The place is already an emblem of the city, with photographs of all the famous people who have passed through here and a cozy and authentic Christmas atmosphere.
Tony House _(Cross, 14) _
Seen from the outside, its decorative paraphernalia with bullfighting motifs is disconcerting. A tourist trap? It seems so, yes, but nothing is further from reality. The proof is in its traditional tapas with ridiculous prices and a family atmosphere worthy of a wave and an olé . Essential grilled ear with brava sauce, zarajos with a splash of lemon and bravas potatoes . Many would like to replicate their attentive and fast service.
Tap wine in the old Café del Nuncio
Tavern J. Blanco _(Tavernillas, 23) _
Madrid stew is eaten here . On Tuesdays and Wednesdays and, of course, also on Sundays (better if you book). A tavern as the canons command, with its retirees drinking bottles and glasses of vermouth and modern young people finding the point of sharing local, chickpeas, soup and meat with the oldest neighbors in the neighborhood.
The snails _(Toledo, 106) _
Given the craving for snails, there are two options to remedy it: Casa Amadeo or Los Caracoles . We always prefer the second, an emblem of the toledo street , less crowded –and also– than its direct competitor and with more punch.
In addition, his perfectly drafted pints of dark beer and the option of ordering a glass of the snail broth to combat hangovers are unrivalled.
Ciriaco House _(Senior, 84) _
He closed and feared the worst: goodbye to one of the oldest taverns in Madrid . But everything was left in a scare thanks to the owners of Casa Alberto and Grandpa's House –president and vice-president of the Association of Centennial Restaurants and Taverns of Madrid–, who put their shoulders to the rescue.
And don't panic: despite the renovation, people continue to eat and drink the same as always.
** Bar Postas ** _(Postas, 13) _
Maaaaarching a squid sandwich! Glorious words for that stomach that is not worth fusions. If you are looking for pure tradition, it will be easy to satisfy it in this classic bar with its huge bar and the so famous snack , which shares the podium in the rankings along with those of La Campana and El Brillante.
San Ginés, the chocolate with churros par excellence in Madrid
WHERE TO DRINK
the venice _(Echegaray, 7) _
To consider: don't take photos and don't tip . Both are strictly prohibited, apart from ordering sodas, wine or beer. The only thing that is drunk here are the Sherry wines that are accompanied by simple tapas , such as Campo Real olives, mojama tuna or cecina.
Tony2 _(Admiral, 9) _
Glass of cava in hand, the old year bids farewell to the grand funniest piano bar in the capital . The only place that mixes the finest nocturnal fauna and gathers them around a huge piano to sing and tune until late at night. Beware also of his cotillion of Kings. Mythical.
Long live Madrid _(Manuel Fernandez and Gonzalez, 7) _
Diego Cabrera has broken the mold with Salmon Guru, that temple of cocktails that has been the first in Madrid to be part of the list 50 Best of the best bars in the world. Cabrera bets this time on this renewed tavern, in which there is no shortage of appetizers and cocktails, as well as a short menu designed by Estanislao Carenzo (Southeast).
Team Ricardo and Diego Cabrera
Camacho House _(San Andrés, 4) _
Faith in neighborhoods like Malasaña, immersed in the maelstrom of the hipster and the tendentious, not lost with bars like this . A tavern that keeps the canalism (the real one) that once made the neighborhood famous.
Its main claims are the tap vermouth , the beer bottles and those dangerous grannies (gin + vermouth) at the foot of the bar.
Del Diego _(Queen, 12) _
Cocktail bar that inherited the style and manners of the great Pedro Chicote , thanks to the great barman Fernando del Diego. his children, Ferdinand and David , have taken over by serving classic-style cocktails with room for some other experiment of the house.
Always trying to please and attract all audiences.
Sierra Angel Tavern _(Gravine, 11) _
In the heart of the Chueca neighborhood, this century-old tavern is a real delight. His specialty is vermouth and well-tossed beers walk to the zinc bar, as well as canapés and preserves to whet your appetite.
SHOPPING
Thyssen Museum Shop/Bookstore _(Paseo del Prado, 8) _
An exclusive bet Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum by artisans, independent firms and designers with a lot of art, such as Helena Rohner, Guille García-Hoz and Yukiko Kitahara.
Rugharite _(Velarde, 12) _
Rughara's sister store, also in the Malasaña neighbourhood, which is strongly committed to clothing and accessories from national brands and creators.
Paco Pinton _(Covarrubias, 7) _
Every time Pintón launches a collection he sweeps social networks. Normal, since their sweatshirts with a message are objects of desire and, in fact, even a cult piece. Both in the store, which he shares with the firm Yellow & Stone, and on his website, you will now find the Animal Rock Collection.
Infamous Types _(San Joaquin, 3) _
Independent bookstore with an impeccable selection . All without falling into best sellers or literary fashions. A jewel, with a good selection of wines included, in Malasaña.
Timeless products in a unique space
Gonzalez & Gonzalez House _(Pelayo, 68) _
Everyday life and genuine products will give you the perfect gift in this charming store that recovers timeless objects such as brooms, natural wax candles or Swedish brushes with horse fibers.
royal factory _(Cervantes, 9) _
The success of his online store was (and is) overwhelming... and that of his recently opened store is following the same path. Rocio Munoz and her team they fill it with nostalgia and good taste with the best Spanish products of yesterday, today and always. Your grandmother will cry with emotion, that's for sure.
house look _(Carrera de San Jerónimo, 30) _
Founded in 1842 , is the first store Artisanal nougat from Madrid and in which more queues form before than Chencho missed those Christmases a few meters away.
Las Rozas Village _(Juan Ramón Jiménez, 3) _
See the snowy peaks of the mountains, walk among little lights and believe that you are in Love Actually ... is also Madrid. The best firms with discounts of up to 60% in this classic epicenter of Christmas shopping.
Babette's Oven _(Ayala, 79) _
His defense of authentic bread is tireless, that's why his roscones are also like the ones from before. Better save it.
The Rock Lottery _(Vegetable, 32) _
Next to the Gran Vía, this rock family has spent many years giving castiza and good luck to everyone who visits it. This year it's our turn, you'll see.
Moulin Chocolate _(Alcalá, 77) _
The pastry shop Ricardo and Puy Velez It will be Frenchified (and the best in Madrid), but its addictive roscones are a national emblem with a waiting list. Hurry up.
WHERE TO SLEEP
** The Westin Palace ** _(Plaza de las Cortes, 7; from €222) _
Grand hotel from the beginning of the 21st century strategically located in the heart of Art Triangle . Their 470 rooms define the authentic Madrid luxury , while its Sunday brunch, served under the impressive tinted glass dome that decorates its La Rotonda restaurant, is already a city classic .
Santo Mauro Autograph Collection _(Zurbano, 36; from €463) _
The Chamberí neighborhood hosts this 19th century residence which is currently and indisputably one of the most exclusive hotels in the country. It combines the French style with a charm of asian influences and art deco.
Bucolic baroque style surrounded by a garden of chestnut trees that lends itself to enjoying the good weather in this beautiful urban oasis.
Great English Hotel _(Echegaray, 8; from €275) _
His fame precedes him as one of the oldest luxury hotels in Madrid . Recently renovated, with interior design by David Rockwell and debuting as a new member of The Leading Hotels of the World , has selfish , the capital's first signature spa, and ** LobByto , a modern cocktail bar that will serve as a prelude to the New Year's Eve gala dinner in its restaurant, designed by the great ** Toño Pérez , chef of Atrio Relais & Châteaux.
One of the oldest luxury hotels in Madrid
NH Collection Madrid Sweden _(Marqués de Casa Riera, 4; from €144) _
Contemporary luxury hotel. It's found just two steps from the Gran Vía and fortunately attached to the Círculo de Bellas Artes.
It has a perfect rooftop to have a drink and watch the sunset, while a lively clandestine cocktail bar hides in its basement that shares a name with its most famous guest: Ernest Hemingway.
Villa Magna _(Paseo de la Castellana, 22; from €418) _
The king of the most urban and classic aristocracy and the favorite of international celebrities . It reigns in the Salamanca district and, like every year, presents four elegant and sophisticated menus to celebrate Christmas Eve, Christmas, New Year's Eve and New Year . All from the hand of its executive chef, Amalio Meadows.
Heritage Madrid Hotel (Diego de León, 43; from €179)
Relais & Châteaux in a Historic Heritage building, the newcomer “brother” of the also essential Orfila Hotel is decorated by lorenzo castle , guarantee of success.
His signature restaurant, **Haroma,** is a gem under the direction of two Michelin stars Mario Sandoval (Coke).
New best hotel in Spain: Heritage Madrid Hotel
Melia Palacio Los Duques _(It costs Santo Domingo, 5; from €294) _
In Madrid de los Austrias and member of The Leading Hotels of the World . It welcomes the gastronomic proposal of the **Torres brothers with Dos Cielos** and its swimming pool, on the terrace, has unique and envied views of the Almudena Cathedral and the Royal Palace.
only you _(Waffle Wafer, 21; from €210) _
Lázaro Rosa-Violán signs the eclectic and cool interior design of this hotel near Chueca and Salesas which has a sister office next to the Atocha station. A new way of understanding contemporary ostentation and with a powerful and current calendar of activities that range from afterwork to culinary pop-ups.
Hyatt Centric Gran Via _(Gran Vía, 31; from €230) _
in full Madrid's Gran Via , take advantage of Christmas to offer a Christmas Eve menu in its restaurant ice and coal : quail consommé, crispy spider crab cannelloni, baked sea bream with angel hair kimchi, lamb shoulder...
ice and coal
H10 Puerta de Alcalá _(Alcalá, 66; from €122) _
Dynamic and modern, it is the perfect executive accommodation –it has three rooms for work meetings–, as well as travelers looking to be close to the shops and restaurants of the Salamanca district and in front of the lung of the city, the Retiro Park.
Coolrooms Atocha _(Atocha, 34; from €190) _
It has just been inaugurated and two of the rooms are the ones that boast their greatest attraction: a private terrace with views of Atocha street and an outdoor Jacuzzi that invites you to rediscover the rooftops of Madrid.
Hotel & Spa Urso _(Mejía Lequerica, 8; from €203) _
Bourgeois and incomparable, as well as capable of molding the canons of modernity with impeccable good taste. A boutique hotel member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World , revered for its spa –which includes a beauty masterclass with Natura Bissé products– and Media Ración, the gastronomic proposal from the emblematic Cuenllas restaurant and the advisors Ansón&Bonet.
_*This report was published in **number 123 of Condé Nast Traveler Magazine (December)**. Subscribe to the printed edition (11 printed issues and a digital version for €24.75, by calling 902 53 55 57 or from our website). The September issue of Condé Nast Traveler is available in its digital version to enjoy on your preferred device. _
A house with views of Atocha street and an outdoor jacuzzi