Plaza of Spain in Seville
Road trips are for the kind of friends you know you can last more than five hours at a time in a confined space. At first it seems silly, but once you get going you will realize that this warning had its reason. But to feel like Thelma and Louise , there is no need to do Route 66 —at least not yet—. In Spain there is an infinity of possible combinations to make while enjoying those little pleasures that it offers you a road trip —like, for example, taking pictures of the first one who falls asleep. And now that the heat is beginning to give way, it is a great time to visit Andalusia. A trip to get to know the ins and outs of three essential cities such as ** Córdoba , Málaga and Seville **.
** CORDOBA **
Located on the meander of the Guadalquivir River and at the foot of the Sierra Morena, is Córdoba, a city that is just like its women: spontaneous, but of a beauty that "gives courage" , as they would say. The “flower of Spain”, as Góngora called it , has nothing to envy to other Spanish cities. Like James Bond's Vesper martini, Córdoba is a cocktail of shaken cultures, but not mixed, that allows you to travel back in time without leaving the city. Here are the best tips for your first stop:
Lost in the courtyards of Córdoba
The essentials
There are certain things that I know SHOULD —the use of capital letters is to emphasize— do whenever you visit Córdoba. No one can leave without seeing its great wonders such as the Mosque-Cathedral , irrefutable proof that both religions can coexist and the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos, where gardens and water dance in your wake. Other of his great classics are his funny and folkloric patios from Cordoba , full of light, as well as the Jewish quarter , a neighborhood made to get lost and forget about the map to discover its streets, facades, and balconies.
The discovery
Lovers of that liquid gold from Córdoba, also called salmorejo, cannot stop going to the Victory Market _(Paseo de la Victoria, s/n) _ to meet the temple of the temples: The Salmoreteca. A stand, which as its name indicates, is an authentic library of salmorejos . All different, curious, but very tasty. Avocado and plankton salmorejo, red fruit salmorejo, pâté and foie gras, mushroom and fruit salmorejo, orange and cod salmorejo… Although our favorite is undoubtedly the beetroot with “vegetable ash” of D.O. Cured Cheese. Zuheros, nuts, capers and anchovies.
Time to eat
If you are one of those people who love snacks because you always envy the dish that the person in front has ordered, ** La Tinaja ** _(Paseo de la Ribera, 12) _ is your place. Next to the Ribera de Córdoba is this charming restaurant that preserves the traditional cordovan gastronomy with a point of innovation and an excellent presentation. Mazamorra with tuna belly, fried aubergines with honey —according to the waiter they are also very good if you wet them with the salmorejo —, braised baby squid with Iberian slices Y seafood hummus They are a safe bet. Although if you want to know one of its star dishes, order some tinajitas bravas: boiled potatoes stuffed with green sauce, all i oli and brava sauce.
With night and treachery
For those looking to have a drink or dance to live music with views of the Guadalquivir River and the Roman Bridge, Sojo Rivera _(Paseo de la Ribera, Cruz del Rastro corner) _ is his bar. But if authenticity and nostalgia are your thing, Long Rock _(Calle Teniente Braulio Laportilla, 6) _ is the cathedral of music lovers where you can listen to the best rock and pop classics until you lose your voice.
The traveler's mecca
Whether you go with friends, with a partner or just, there are two famous hostels in Córdoba for their philosophy, their design and their great host: Joseph Fabra . In the heart of the city you can find ** Córdoba Bed & Be ** _(C/ Cruz Conde, 22) _ and ** Option Be ** _(C/ Leiva Aguilar, 1) _, the most recent hostel, since It opened last July. As soon as you walk in, you know that the person behind both projects has traveled as much —or more than you— and knows what globetrotters are looking for in accommodation. A minimalist decoration, but with a style careful and full of details ; more than photogenic corners to capture instantly; guided bike tours of the city and themed dinners. Can you ask for something more? The truth is yes, humanity and family spirit that is breathed in the environment. José becomes that native friend that every nomad needs with whom to have a beer and ask what to see, where to eat and those secrets that he only knows the natives.
the best sunset
The Roman bridge of Córdoba , located on the Guadalquivir river as it passes through the city with the Calahorra Tower as a backdrop It is the best location to enjoy one of those breathtaking sunsets. A romantic setting for those traveling couples, but with a geek point for the inveterate seriéfilos. Why? This same construction becomes the long bridge that unites Volantis across the Rhoyne , hometown of Talisa Maegyr, wife of Robb Stark in _ Game of Thrones ._
A sunset over the Roman bridge of Córdoba
** MALAGA **
About 100 kilometers east of the Strait of Gibraltar, is Malaga , a city with a Mediterranean soul, but full of ambition. a destination where Roman archeology meets Arab and Christian architecture , where modern art finds its fate and the sea breeze blows hard. A city with the scent of orange blossoms, where culture, nature and gastronomy are cooked over a slow fire to the delight of its visitors.
The essentials
Thanks to the rich variety of the capital of Malaga, the traveler finds what he was looking for. Those who love history can visit the Roman theatre , his impressive citadel or your Gibralfaro Castle ; while the adventurers are predestined to discover the interior of The Treasure Cave in Cala del Moral and dreamers can gaze at the horizon from the Balcón de Europa in Nerja . Although if you prefer a more hedonistic route in which to feed your soul, you can find the definitive guide to museums in Malaga here.
balcony of europe
The classic
The Pimpi _(Calle Granada, 62) _ is like first love, which is never forgotten. And for many it is more than that, it is his house. A winery where you can taste a good glass of wine alongside barrels signed by characters such as Antonio Gala, Paloma Picasso or Antonio Banderas and in turn discover the local gastronomy with ingredients from the land. Malaga salad, ajoblanco with raisins and apple, fried marinade, anchovies with lemon... In this old mansion from the 18th century you can choose between more than seventy dishes , and it's not a joke!
Time to eat
The Pedregalejo beach promenade is the area of pilgrimage for those seeking sea, sun and the best fish in the area. A row of large boats stranded on the sand become makeshift kitchens for the traditional espeto technique: sardines skewered on long, thin rods, then grilled right under your nose. Our favourite? the in-laws _(Paseo Marítimo el Pedregal, 94) _ is a legendary restaurant for its rich variety of fish, from ancestral skewers to horse mackerel, pink or whitebait.
Eating in Pedregalejo implies one of espetos!
the wine cellar
** The Old Guard House ** _(Alameda Principal, 18) _ has been giving the authentic Malaga sweet wine, vermouth and muscatel to its visitors since 1840. A clear symbol of the city and the wines of its land in an authentic setting. It will be for a reason “Winery with the most tradition in Malaga” !
The Old Guard House
the best sunset
In the middle of the city, without a doubt the best location to see a movie sunset is the Chinitas Lounge Terrace _(Pasaje Chinitas, 3) _ of the hotel that receives the same name. Three meters above the sky —of Malaga— you can have a drink while you watch the sun go down. But if what you are looking for is a rural sunset, one of those in which the city skyline does not appear anywhere, take note: the mountains of Malaga, a chain of hills about five kilometers north of the city and parallel to the Mediterranean coast.
the best sunset
** SEVILLE **
Neither Velázquez, nor Murillo, not even Bécquer. There are two illustrious characters in history who were able to describe the spirit of the Andalusian capital: “Seville has a special color, Seville still has its duende. It still smells like orange blossom on me, I like being with its people”. And it is that Antonio Romero and Rafael Ruiz — Those from the river , for the uninitiated—they hit the nail on the head when they wanted to pay homage to this city, didn't they?
The essentials
The Real Alcázar of Seville, the Plaza de España, the mythical Giralda, the Torre del Oro, the Cathedral of Santa María de la Sede de Sevilla… Seville is a city full of traditions, history and architectural poetry that is difficult to summarize in a few lines . Because as Arturo Pérez Reverte stated, “No one could invent a city like Seville”.
Plaza of Spain in Seville
best kept secret
Right next to the Giralda, there is a small square that sometimes goes unnoticed by tourists and therein lies its magic. Santa Marta Square It is an intimate hideaway, full of beauty to rest or read a book in the utmost tranquility. His "barreduela", as the Andalusians say, begins in the Plaza de la Virgen de los Reyes, in the heart of the old town. Four small orange trees shelter a central transept that provides that mystical aspect, but at the same time familiar.
wandering around
You cannot leave Seville without strolling through Santa Cruz , a typical Sevillian neighborhood full of narrow streets of these that seem to never end and white facades. But if you don't have time to get lost in its streets, go to the water alley, whose name comes from the conduction of water that crossed the wall. Its stately homes, its balconies, the Doña Elvira square or the Murillo gardens They are your greatest treasures. An alley so admired that even the tunos dedicated a song to it: "Among the Sevillian neighborhoods there is one of legend, because its streets are so lonely that it is enchanting and in the summer the sun does not penetrate any of them".
Time to eat
If there is something that can be done in Seville a lot and well, it is to eat. Just walk around the Tetuán street and Sierpes street , in the center of the city, and your appetite is already whetted by its characteristic smell of marinade. Although another typical place in Seville could be its Triana Market _(Calle San Jorge, 6) _, located on the remains of the Castle of Saint George , seat of the old inquisitorial court. Convergence point of the most typical streets of the neighborhood — San Jacinto, Betis and Castilla —, its aroma of ham, cheese or freshly baked bread catches you instantly. The perfect place to enjoy a craft beer as it is Taifa and make an impromptu tasting of the best products of the area.
Triana Market
the best sunset
Walking along the banks of the Guadalquivir river is always a pleasure. There you can find the representation of all Sevillians: students, families, couples... The fetish place for skaters and music lovers. In addition, in good weather it is the ideal place to prepare a picnic and wait for the sun to go down, popularly known as Triana Bridge.
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Seville and its color and its heat