Basque whalers route: eight destinations with a lot of epic
** ALBAOLA MUSEUM in Pasaia (Gipuzkoa) **
Before we leave, we need a ship to join. In Pasaia (Gipuzkoa) the Albaola Maritime Factory is building a replica of the Nao San Juan , one of the first transoceanic ships that sailed from the Basque Country to Newfoundland (Canada) . That ship, built in this same port in 1563, sank after a storm, but its remains were found in 1978 in Red Bay. Today a team of artisans works as they did 450 years ago to re-launch this legendary ship. Albaola is a museum, but also a shipyard at full capacity. You'll want to go back and watch your ship grow: imposing and looking out to sea.
A secret: Take advantage of its pier and access the museum by boat from San Sebastián, Fuenterrabía or Hendaye. At the end of the visit, taste a whale menu at the Ziaboga restaurant.
Rebuilding the Nau San Juan
** BERMEO (Bizkaia) **
We have to check if there are any whales in the vicinity, so we head to Bermeo. From its high vantage point we did not see the beast, so we took the opportunity to stroll through its picturesque port and visit the Fisherman's Museum to learn more about the intrepid whalers.
A secret: **go to the hermitage of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe **, ascend its 241 steps and ask the saint for luck on our journey. Perhaps you will find a fishing boat making the traditional three turns in front of the little island to ask for the same thing as you.
General view of the islet with San Juan de Gaztelugatxe
**DANTZALEKU FOREST in Sakana (Navarra) **
Before we throw ourselves into the sea look at the woods. The enormous dimensions of our ships and their rounded structures required the search for trees with a specific shape, that were cared for for decades to obtain the parts of the whaler . (What patience!) . today we can put ourselves in the shoes of a riverbank woodpecker and check the difficulty of this task while we walk through the impressive Dantzaleku oak grove , on the sakana county.
A secret: in some oaks you will see colored silhouettes . They indicate the form that was sought when guiding the growth of that oak and the naval piece that was extracted from it.
Forest of Dantzaleku
**QUINTANAR OF THE SIERRA (Burgos) **
“Fish”, “pitch”… These words almost forgotten today were the most common when the boats were made of wood. In this town of Soria, the last pegueros continue to make in ovens scattered throughout the forest the pitch or tar that will waterproof our whaler . Enter a hiking route along its paths, admire the imposing pine forests and look for the last ovens, such as the one in Mataca.
A secret: pay attention to the dates. If you're lucky, you might find one. caravan of carts and oxen traveling the old roads to transport the tar to our whaler.
Ovens in the forest of Quintanar de la Sierra
**AIAKO HARRIA NATURAL PARK in Oiartzun (Gipuzkoa) **
We forgot something important! How are we going to hunt our whale without a good harpoon? To build it we need iron, which we will also use in tools, nails or anchors. ** The Arditurri mines,** already exploited by the Romans, are open to the public for an exciting visit through their underground passages and their history.
A secret: for a perfect day, the ideal is to reach the mines on your bicycle , pedaling from Pasaia and touring the Arditurri Greenway .
The Arditurri mines
**BASQUE CIDER MUSEUM in Astigarraga (Gipuzkoa) **
What will cider have to do with whales? MUCH. We have a long journey ahead of us and we need a drink for the road. The water is not fit for barrels, so... We only have the cider left! And it's not a bad thing. Its high vitamin content prevented scurvy, making the Basque whalers the healthiest of the time. In the Sagardoetxea museum you can learn about the history of its preparation and, of course, taste this delicacy.
A secret: go in cider season (January to May), stop for lunch at a cider house in Astigarraga and attend the live show of the txotx! With this curious cry they warn in the cider houses that a kupela (barrel) is opening. It's time to leave the food half done, get up from the table, and run glass in hand for your drink of cider.
Cider Museum
**RED BAY (Canada) **
We have a ship, we have a harpoon, we have provisions and we know what we are doing. It is time to return the Nao San Juan to the place where she last sailed . In Red Bay is the National Historic Site, a museum that exhibits remains of the passage of the Basque whalers, such as boats or ovens in which the fat of the whales was melted.
A secret: if you are in the area on July 18, You will be able to be part of an activity in which guides dressed in period costumes recreate and recall the adventures of the intrepid Basques who navigated this bay.
redbay
ICELAND
On our way back, we travel to Iceland to recall the journeys of our fellow Basques in the 17th century. Of course, the adventure will not be as exciting as in those days: Iceland has just repealed the law that allowed the killing of Basques, in force since the slaughter of 32 whalers in 1615. This time we will travel in peace, with the Icelanders, but also with the whales. We are in the 21st century: it's time to sheath the harpoon and observe the whales with affection, respect and (that has not changed) infinite amazement.
A secret: today the whales need our protection. When you go out on a sighting tour, choose an operator that complies with the codes of conduct of IceWhale . Happy whales, happy adventurers.
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Iceland