Belize: endless reasons to lose track of time
I open my eyes, and through my mask I see only bubbles rising to the surface of the turquoise waters I just dove into. A quick breath confirms that my snorkel is working properly. I breathe in, breathe out and relax . A few seconds later, Lisa is at my side, underwater, to share the excitement of a discovery: this fascinating and beautiful aquatic world. Then we see three sea turtles, which feed on the algae under the green water. we follow them.
They dive and rise to the surface to take in oxygen from time to time, similar to us, although theirs is more natural. They don't seem to mind the human presence . They continue on their way, and ours is marked by Charlie, captain of the boat and the one who will be the diving guide during the visit to the reserve of Hol Chan , a natural break, on the reef off the coast of Ambergris Caye. in Belize.
Diving in Shark Alley
Hol Chan means small canal in Mayan. Enjoying this place alone is a luxury as incredible as it is fleeting. More and more tourists arrive here , but for a while we exclusively enjoyed this group of six enthusiasts. A school of blue jacks, cornets, butt damsels and princess parrots are exhibited to us. Holding my breath, I dive and swim until I'm on his level, So I look them straight in the eye . I feel like one of them. At least for a second, just before buoyancy and lack of air push me to the surface.
Charlie points out a coral reef from which he sticks out the green neck of a long brunette and he reaches out his hand to caress her as if she were a pet, before which we are overwhelmed. After a short boat ride we arrive at Shark Ray Alley, where we jump into the water again, this time surrounded by dozens of nurse sharks and spiny rays, accustomed to humans thanks to the boats that seduce them with food. Before tourism fishermen cleaned their daily catch here , but they realized that these marine inhabitants were approaching when they heard the boat's engine.
Although these sharks are not aggressive, they can bite if they feel threatened. For this reason, and because their presence commands respect, we stay at a safe distance while they eat. At the end of the excursion, two great eagle rays sail effortlessly , as if they were flying in an aquatic sky.
Sharks in the area of Shark Alley, in front of San Pedro
They are too fast for us mere observers. After all, our joy lies in this time of communion with marine life. Back on dry land, we enjoy a succulent rum cocktail prepared by Charlie. With his long braid and behind his sunglasses, his relaxed spirit is contagious. . It seems unbelievable that we have been here so little time, so long or more that it is winter in our home and now it is snowing. The sun was shining when we landed at the small airport in Belize, after a short flight from Miami. For Lisa and I this is the second visit to the country and as soon as we hit the ground, memories of the warm sand under bare feet and those of the climb to the Mayan ruins come back to mind.
This time our journey will take us two days inland, followed by a couple more on the eastern beaches. With luggage in hand, we meet Vergil, a Mayan native in his 50s as warm as the weather. He knows everything about the history and culture of his town. He is the one in charge of leading us to Gaia River Lodge , a resort located in the forest reserve of Mountain Pine Ridge , at the western edge of the forest. The Mayans have lived in Belize since the first millennium BC. Some 50,000 settled near Caracol during the Mayan Golden Age. avid farmers , their society was concentrated in fertile lands and mountains, ideal for cultivating and developing their cults.
"The Mayans believed in the 13 layers of the sky and built their temples high up so that the priests were as close as possible to their gods," explains Vergil. At present, many of the sites are still half-excavated, creating a mysterious atmosphere and the feeling of being the first to arrive at this enclave.
Pyramid of Lamanai
Our plan is to visit Caracol, the largest Mayan archaeological site in the country. But the rainy season, from June to mid-November, has been prolonged this year, and flooding hampers roads. “ We will have to make an offering to Chaac , the god of water, so that the rains stop and the roads open again”, jokes Vergil. After an hour and a half driving on the highway, we turn onto a path where the dust has turned into mud, a clay consisting of reddish tones. “The roadside massage” , as Vergil says, lasts 45 minutes.
We arrive in Gaïa when sunset gives way to night and the mist draws a mystical path. Our imagination lists the animals that live in the area: Yucatan squirrels, gray foxes, tamandua, ocelots, leopards, kinkajú, carnivorous ants, jaguarundís (otter cats) and tayra monkeys.
Two large carvings of primitive heads guard the entrance to the Gaïa River Lodge. The main building is a huge palapa that houses the reception, the restaurant and the bar, where we are received with an appetizing rum combined with guava . In Greek mythology, Gaia is the goddess of Nature and the resort is proud to help its guests connect with her, both in the facilities and during the guided tours they offer.
Flower at Gaïa River Lodge
Our room, a palapa high ceilings lined with bay leaves , reminiscent of a sophisticated tree house. There are no windows, just screens that separate the wild from the comfortable. The details denote a responsible attitude towards the environment: instead of plastic bottles, there is a nice jug with drinking water, **electric flashlights (that are recharged on the wall) ** to avoid consumption at night and, Unless you request it, neither the sheets nor the towels will be changed during your stay. And most importantly: the Gaïa Riverlodge draws energy from its own hydraulic plant.
Later we sat on the porch of the restaurant. The rain has stopped and just the sound of the river and the occasional droplets hitting the foliage behind us accompany the conversation around the card preferences. We decided on a typical Belizean dinner of chicken, rice, beans, fried mollusks, and a green salad with cashews. For dessert, rum flan . After tea in the lounge and a quick look through a book of aerial photographs of Belize, we head back to our cabin. The constant rumble of the river is perfect when lying on a pristine family-size bed.
In the morning the song of the birds arouses our curiosity. The windows open to an immense landscape with beautiful views of the falls and to the river. With the energy of the Mayan breakfast we explored the grounds of the resort, full of wild orchids still wet and bright after the storm. I recognize the shape of the spider orchid, because of its similarity to the arthropod from which it takes its name, and that of the black orchid, the national flower of Belize.
Blue Morpho Butterfly at Green Hill Butterfly
Today we will dedicate the day to releasing adrenaline on a zip line in the middle of the jungle, Calico Jacks , and to visit the nearby butterfly observatory. During the excursion we hike through the forest and arrive at the entrance of a limestone cavern. A difficult walk between rocks takes us to the bottom of a staircase, 240 meters inland. As part of the Mayan legacy, the caves have witnessed sacred rituals and ceremonies, such as human sacrifice.
In this grotto there is historical evidence: ancestral pottery and primitive drawings, as well as a Mayan calendar on the walls, as the guide tells us. We go through stalactites and stalagmites , we get out and head to the zip line on a ride where we pass a tree with spiky bark, called a bastard, which has a bad habit of making anyone who collides with it bleed uncontrollably, and at the same time contains the antidote in its sap.
Bridge at Calico Jacks
Vern decides to try one of the termites hanging from it. “Tastes like carrot” he assures. Of course, we all believe it and continue on our way. After eight journeys, we do the last one in a hydraulic lift. This is, without a doubt, the longest and highest (150 meters). It seems that we are going to reach our destination with shouts of joy. This place lifts you up, not just physically, but also emotionally , connects you with nature and its caves bring you closer to its history.
Our next stop is at the farm Green Hills Butterfly , which occupies more than 1,200 square meters in which around 30 species of butterflies fly, plus eight types of hummingbirds . Out of all of them, the blue morpho definitely gets all of our attention. by the iridescent hue of its wings and its magnificent size.
We decided to spend the next morning discovering at our own pace (and on the bikes available at the hotel) the surrounding Caribbean beaches and its famous coral reef. We came pedaling until Big Rock , an area of waterfalls, we cross a stream and descend a steep hill to a path where the sounds of water lead us to a waterfall well nourished by recent rains. It is the dream place to relax, sunbathe after a refreshing dip , get up to mischief and celebrate with a picnic. We are the only humans in paradise.
Howler monkeys at Chan Chich Lodge
The road back to the Gaïa Riverlodge is lined with lush thickets of aromatic St. John's herbs, with their characteristic yellow flowers. The so-called St. John is a medicinal plant to treat anxiety and depression, although we doubt that these evils are suffered here . Ironically, soon after, we regretted not stocking up on said herbs to overcome our nerves when we nearly missed our flight to San Pedro on Ambergris Caye due to bridge construction.
Fortunately, the airport has a single runway on a wide grassy field and a small building that combines departures and arrivals. A hippie-looking local artist rolls up the paintings he'll bring on board the same flight, while the rest of the passengers, 14 in all, wait on the back porch. Security workers are busy eating. The sky is clear when taking off. We fly over green forests and blue waters and beige of the coast and landed half an hour later in Ambergris Caye.
* This article is published in the Condé Nast Traveler magazine for October number 77. This issue is available in its digital version for iPad in the iTunes AppStore, and in the digital version for PC, Mac, Smartphone and iPad in the virtual newsstand by Zinio (on Smartphone devices: Android, PC/Mac, Win8, WebOS, Rim, iPad) . Also, you can find us on Google Play Newsstand.
_ You may also be interested..._*
- 50 landscapes from a bird's eye view
- New hotels with sea views
- Places to see before you die
- The 50 most dangerous destinations in the world: trips not suitable for cautious people
Hotel Matachica in Belize