Trat, is this the most secret corner of Thailand?
When I get off the plane that in just one hour has taken me from the chaotic bangkok until the peaceful province of Trat I don't know what I'm going to find. And with the innocence and enthusiasm of one who enters a new territory to explore, I am ready to let myself be surprised. To let me seduce
Trat is the name of both the easternmost province of Thailand as of the city that serves as the capital. Located next to the border with ** Cambodia **, it has 52 paradisiacal islands bathed by the most turquoise waters of the Gulf Of Thailand, with small villages where it seems that time is stuck in the past, and with a culture that stands out for its respect for nature.
Definition of 'green' level Thailand
If we add to all these qualities that, in addition, it is a still unknown territory for most of tourism -with what this implies: a population devoted to travelers and zero overcrowding-, what more can we ask for?
But to understand what I'm talking about, it's best to stop beating around the bush and get to the point. Where had we left it? Oh yes: on our arrival at the Trat Airport , composed of a small track of takeoff/landing in the middle of a leafy landscape where elephant-shaped bushes welcome us. Great, things look good!
After doing check in in the Hotel Toscana Trad , a three-star with that Asian air that we like so much and that will serve as our base camp during our days in the province, we go straight to meet one of the communities that inhabit these parts.
A three-star hotel with an Asian flair
The Ban Nam Chiao they have a characteristic that makes them admirable: 50% of its population is Buddhist, while the other 50% is Muslim . And, despite what many may think, in this little corner of Thailand, coexistence is absolutely friendly and peaceful.
We are encouraged to walk along its high wooden walkways, those that run a few meters above the channel that serves as the backbone of the town. The colorful boats of its fishermen rest peacefully in the calm waters. On one side and on the other, the small houses where the members of the community live, leaving their privacy aside. Open doors, lunches on the terraces or siestas in the hammocks in full view of everyone who passes by. And what else gives?
Life goes by at a much slower pace in these latitudes. The good atmosphere is felt, felt, and that is a plus added to the experience . Few places are so authentic.
The generosity and hospitality of the Ban Nam Chiao is demonstrated with every step we take, something that is even more accentuated when it comes time for lunch... Did someone say food? The neighbors will not hesitate a second to show the culinary techniques and most representative flavors of this area to the delight of our palates.
Capturing the sunset in Trat
But the gastronomic aspect can go further: we get on the boat of one of the fishermen to launch into the mouth of the canal and witness the very curious technique they have to capture one of the star products: the “tongue clams” -either tongue shell -. As easy –or not- as jumping into the water, diving deep and coming back to the surface with your hands full of clams… Could there be anything more surprising? You are right, it's taste , which will have to be tasted just as we set foot on the ground.
And for dessert? maybe a bit of tangme Krop, the candy that they make by hand in the village and that is eaten, above all, during Ramadan. This will leave us with the best taste in our mouths, although we won't be able to reject some of its tropical fruits either. Papaya, mango or lychee? The list of exotic flavors is endless.
A fresh coconut can never fail
But the experience can still be completed more. A bike ride along the trails that surround the community It will be perfect to wash down the food. And on two wheels we make a stop at the house of Pee Noy, an elderly lady who continues to make by hand, with palm leaves, the famous ngop hats So typical of the area.
back to the city of treat we make a stop at its market, open until late at night. Life unfolds in the most everyday way through its corridors, where huge pieces of meat and vegetables with unpronounceable names rest on the counter. Meanwhile, the shopkeepers relentlessly scare away the flies with a most effective technique: a stick with a bag tied to the end, in continuous movement, is more than enough.
If we have been wanting to try more flavors, this will be the ideal place to cheer up with the street food. The difficult part will be choosing between the multiple positions. Of course, do not get distracted and, beware of the spicy! What you least suspect will make you feel like you're throwing real fire out of your mouth.
pee noy
Chong Changtune is the name of another of the communities that inhabit the area and that practice the ecotourism . The motto that its members always keep in mind is very simple: “everything we take from nature, we have to give it back” . And with this philosophy of life they make health and well-being their maxim, with which they make clear their passion and dedication to natural and cultural conservation.
The experience with them can begin, for example, by getting into a human-sized basket for chickens. And no, we have not lost our minds, quiet.
The Chong Changtune have developed a peculiar type of sauna that will leave you speechless. After spending 10 minutes -which, we warn you, take forever- sweating non-stop inside this huge basket, with a kettle to which they have added up to 10 types of herbs and medicinal plants in the interior , and with the only escape than that of a hole through which to get the head out, we will have released all kinds of impurities and toxins from our body. Or, at least, that's what they assure us while we feel the intense heat to which we submit during the experience. Then, a good cold shower and we will be a new person.
Access to the Huai Raeng community
A complete Thai massage performed by the Chong women or one impromptu beauty session with white clay by the riverside They will be other native customs that we can enjoy. Seriously: you'll walk out of there feeling 20 years younger.
A menu based on banana stems with curry and fried pork with salt will be the best way to say goodbye to these women –because beware, it is they, and not them, who are working on this project to make the rest of the world the virtues of their way of life -. After resting at the hotel and taking a good shower, an ideal place to have dinner will be the restaurant Krung Thai Chicken , in which everything is cooked from organic vegetables.
Before leaving the continental Trat we will go to meet the huai raeng , who live together in "The Land of the Three Waters", a kind of mangrove where fresh water, brackish water and salt water mix . The conferences take place in this small village facing its canal, from which they extract all those natural resources that are necessary for their day to day.
Food packets with palm leaves in Huai Raeng
They take pains to plant the entire bank of palm trees, of which they take advantage of absolutely everything, starting with their thick stems, which they use for construction, and continuing with the leaves, with which they make roofs, hats, various utensils. and even khanom chack , an exquisite Thai dessert made with flour, coconut and sugar, wrapped in palm leaves and toasted.
In addition, plantations are the perfect place to place small cages with which they fish for lobster , the same with which they prepare many of their most typical dishes. Recipes that are later wrapped in palm leaves –once again- perfectly folded: the most peculiar and ecological tupperware you have ever seen.
Aerial view of the paradise of Koh Chang
And, after getting to know the culture well, it's time to relax. We head to the pier and get on a ferry that, in just one hour, brings us closer to the beautiful Koh Chang island.
The elephant island , as it is popularly known, appears before us as an ungovernable jungle universe. From a distance it only looks green and greener: the vegetation is the owner and lady of the place. We predict an unconventional island.
And so it is: the densest jungle that we can imagine begins almost at the level of its beaches, the same ones with fine white sand that could well star in any paradisiacal postcard. Now it will be time to decide what lifestyle we want to lead during our days on the island: do we stay in one of the luxurious resorts in the north of Koh Chang, such as the Spa Koh Chang Resort , where you can enjoy healthy treatments, detox retreats, massages and organic food in a unique environment? Or do we go south, to one of their cabins for 6 euros a night next to dream beaches?
The spa in the middle of the nature of Trat
Whatever the choice –also combinable, of course- you will not have to miss out on an excursion through the jungle to crown the highest point of the island. Nor should we stop discovering the wonders in the form of waterfalls that it hides inside. And, of course, we must dedicate a day to travel by boat neighboring islands and snorkeling , thus enjoying the colorful underwater universe.
And in this way, lying in the hammock of any of its beaches while we enjoy, fresh Singha in hand, a beautiful sunset, it will be time to say goodbye to this authentic paradise. From this secret Thailand that we wanted to share with you today.
Snorkeling in the waters of Koh Chang