The ever prevailing Petronas Twin Towers
Kuala Lumpur is today the city of the petronas towers . However, the magnificent building has only been there since 1998. Many travel reports begin with that handy “ It had been 25 years since he stepped foot on the streets of Kuala Lumpur ”. Something difficult to apply in this story because 25 years ago the population did not even appear on the map of the minimally interesting places to visit. Today is the sixth most visited city in the world , even ahead of New York, Paris, Rome, Barcelona or Madrid, according to the annual study of Euromonitor International l. However it is still a exotic destination from our part of the globe.
From the same taxi that took me to the airport at ungodly hours of the morning, I could perceive the strangeness that Malaysia Y Kuala Lumpur ( KL for Malaysians ) . “Are you going to work for a company there?” the taxi driver, who is already used to taking Spaniards who are hired in such remote places, asked me. A unusual destination but with many attractions.
The first, most obvious and appreciated, was the 20 degree difference with the cold European winter. Leaving the thermal refuge that is the airport terminal, a caress of heat invaded the battered body while a wild curtain of water only let us glimpse that time is capricious. These rains were the aftermath of the meteorological instability caused by the super typhoon haiyan , which wreaked havoc in the Philippines. The storms last only ten minutes and it is surprising to see the daily life of the people calmly waiting for it to clear.
During the journey from the airport, the imposing silhouettes of the Two towers, omnipresent in the landscape, authentic visual and existential reference point . Everything revolves around them. The great skyscrapers are at your feet (until now it is not allowed to build buildings above 452 meters). The most impressive shopping centers in the world are located around these twins, the most exclusive stores, the best hotels... Ours is the Grand Hyatt, an imposing building 400 meters from the Petronas that has been operating for two years and is already a reference in the city . The reception, on the 35th floor, disarms you with the spectacular panoramic view, of course, the towers in the foreground. Service is the sophistication of traditional eastern friendliness Y breakfast , in the 38th floor encourages you to get up early to be able to enjoy it for longer.
An oasis, like this pool at the Grand Hyatt hotel
The Malay spends the day eating , is not just a personal appreciation, they boast of it. The food is another religion in a very religious country . Street food stalls are everywhere and always packed. I know sit four times a day to make the main meals, but there are innumerable occasions when they snack on something. At least once in each day they must eat rice and always everything very spicy “ if not life is boring ” affirms Zul, my guide.
Dataran Merdeka, the independence square
As soon as I met him I thought that he was a religious extremist because of the things he told, but that feeling was diluted when I witnessed his tolerance of our customs. Zul is Muslim , What Malaysia, he practices islam and his identity document officially collects it. The laws for him are stricter than for those who have other beliefs: Buddhists, Hindus, Confucianists, Christian Taoists... The country is an amalgamation of nationalities, religions, cultures and languages . The main one is the Malay but English allows, more or less, to understand everyone. And there everyone understands. Religions do not seem like an insurmountable barrier.
The relationship between state and religion is easily diluted and it is more shocking than in the countries of the Middle East, precisely because you expect it there and in Malaysia it does not seem consubstantial to a place with exuberant nature and a benign climate, (especially from March, when the rainy season ends) .
View of the skyscrapers from the National Mosque
SKYSCRAPERS RULE THE CITY
On the human scale, but if you are able to overcome the vertigo and hop on a helicopter for a bird's-eye view , the thing changes, the dimensions also. From the little helipad in the lake park Titiwangsa you take off to face your fears and discover indelible panoramas. The trip is worth it.
Once again the towers mark the landscape but from the air it is easy to see that there is a lots of green areas in the city . Among them, one stands out that we were able to visit on land, the KL Bird Park , an immense aviary of more than eight hectares in which to enjoy hundreds of species of tropical birds in semi-freedom . The king is the hornbill , a steel with black plumage and an orange beak with a large bump on the beak that gives it that horn-like appearance. Coexistence with birds is too intense for the visitor, so much so that they can get to shamelessly eat from your plate if you get lost in the restaurant.
Kuala Lumpur National Theater on Lake Titiwangsa
Not only there, in the Batu Caves , an hour from the city center (you can also go by subway) , the macaques in the wild are the kings of the temple. A truly spectacular place presided over by a statue of the Hindu deity Murugan , of 43 meters high and hypnotic golden color . The giant figure is actually the guardian guarding the entrance of Batu Cave , which must be climbed by a long and steep staircase of 272 steps to reach an immense space inside the mountain with an intoxicating atmosphere and a hindu shrine inside.
In the surroundings of the temple several restaurants compete to serve the best banana leaves . A vegetarian dish with a base of rice and various types of vegetables served on a banana leaf. Very light, yes, it is must eat it with the hand . The right to be exact. The right is for feeding and other pure acts , the left for more customs… prosaic, like washing . It is important not to mix the two hands.
The Hindu Temple of the Batu Caves
In spite of the cultural and religious wealth that emerges from the spiritual hodgepodge, we have to be honest, one comes here moved by more prosaic reasons as well. Shopping, shopping or whatever you want to call it. With the right or left hand, or with both at the same time. Kuala Lumpur is a paradise for lovers of spending lavishly . It will be for the advantageous currency exchange, one euro is 4.5 Malaysian ringgit (pronounced as onomatopoeia of phone calls), because of the proximity to the great world production centers, because of the low taxes or because of the traditional commercial spirit of this town, the truth is that it is really cheap buy in Kuala Lumpur. About 30-40%. It's as if every month there would be sales.
They know it, they are aware and they encourage it. shopping malls are pharaonic . The list is endless: Suria, near the Petronas Twin Towers; Ampang Park, perhaps the first of those built; Great Eastern Mall; Avenue K; sogo ; Maju Junction, specializing in outlet ; Lot10 ; Low Yat Plaza; Berjaya Times Square, the largest in Malaysia with over 700 stores ; and my favorite, the Pavilion, in the district of bukit bintang , has 450 stores of all kinds and a incomparable gastronomic offer . Be careful because it is easy to get lost inside.
Petaling Street, for shopping lovers
There is also time for the more traditional markets like Little India in brickfields , the neighborhood where the bricks with which the city was built were baked and which today is the center of indian trade ; or the central market of Pasar Seni, where artisans offer the batik , hand-painted fans and traditional masks or delicate pieces of Chinese porcelain.
If you prefer racket and wild haggling, take a look around Petaling Street , in Chinatown , the paradise of imitation and technology . The latest generation mobiles They are sold at street stalls. From time to time, a good-natured citizen will approach you to offer you a smartphone in your ear that in Europe costs 600 euros for just under 200 in exchange. It is in your hand. I, a fan of technology, did not dare. But I did at the Plaza Low Yat mall. Eight technology-only plants.
Cantaloupe Restaurant
If you are not exhausted, go to the night market of Bangsar Baru , on Sunday, open until 11 at night. But if you want to enjoy a good dinner you have to go to Cantaloupe, in the skyscraper complex troika designed by Norman Foster. Yes, Sir Foster is here too.
The restaurant, on the 23rd floor, has the best views in the city skyline . From its terrace you can feel the master of the world. The French cuisine in charge of Christian Bauer it's amazing. A luxury and more in that area of the planet. It is the best restaurant in the city and the most expensive menu is 100 euros per head. lobster with beef, foie satay , a cheek piece that melts and melts.
At the height of the food is the conversation with Eddie Chew partner of the chef and who runs the place with a friendliness and a French cosmopolitan charm. I'm not surprised that in this place Moët Hennessy arrange the presentation of the new products for their own employees or that the designer jimmy choo walks up to me and introduces himself over a Last Word Martini with Eddie at the bar: "Hi, I'm Jimmy." He has come to dinner with three Western women in their 50s who won dinner here with him. During a benefit gala They each donated $10,000. to participate in the draw and have the opportunity to do so.
This happens today. 25 years ago no one knew where Kuala Lumpur was.
The skyscrapers of Kuala Lumpur
WHERE TO SLEEP
Grand Hyatt Hotel
A five-star luxury experience, located in the center of the city, surrounded by the lush gardens of Kuala Lumpur City Center Park. It has luxurious rooms and large space, including breakfast. HD: €165
WHERE TO EAT
Cantaloupe Restaurant
Part of the Sky Dinning Troika. French restaurant with surprising, delicate and, above all, delicious dishes. Less than €100 per guest (drinks apart).
JP Teres Restaurant
The hotel's Malay restaurant Grand-Hyatt . It is located on the ground floor of the building. The chef Tommy Fransila dominates oriental cuisine after spending his life touring the best restaurants in Asia . If you have the chance, ask him about it. chicken with rice They say it's the Malaysian national dish , and get ready for a long dissertation on this seemingly simple dish.
- This article is published in the Condé Nast Traveler magazine for February, number 71. This number _ is available in its digital version for iPad in the iTunes AppStore, and in the digital version for PC, Mac, Smartphone and iPad in the newsstand Zinio virtual (on Smartphone devices: Android, PC/Mac, Win8, WebOS, Rim, iPad) ._
Masjid Negara, the National Mosque, symbol of independence
The gardens surrounding the National Mosque