The new bread lives in Barcelona
Yesterday it was celebrated world bread day , an initiative of the International Federation of Bakers (UIB) with the aim of promoting the preparation and consumption of this basic food that has been the star of a revolution in recent years. Everywhere new specialties with suggestive names are making their way with force , such as crystal bread, with very fine sheets of petrified crumb in the form of delicate membranes, or cloud bread, tender, soft and light and with a very white crust.
The bakeries (the new ones and the old ones) flee from an overly innovative interior design and resort to a classic aesthetic. Those with straw baskets, natural woods, shelves and retro counters are popular: the only concession to technology is the area dedicated to the ovens and the bread “laboratory”. We have traveled to Barcelona, where design and peasant tradition are mixed, to discover some of these places that offer the best of bread, bread:
** Turris ** Xavier Barriga is one of the young referents who lead the bread movement in Barcelona and has three locations. Among his specialties is a tribute to the llonguet bread (a Catalan classic), or ** the suprem bread (a piece of two kilos) **, in addition to the aforementioned "cloud bread".
For him, the time factor is the key : “The current bakery goes very fast with the process. If the bread ferments too quickly, it doesn't last, it doesn't keep, it doesn't have flavour, the crumb dries out and falls off the crust. In the past, the time factor was taken into account, but nowadays it is being reduced more and more. The kneading and resting time is very important”, he comments he.
Loaves exposed in Turris
Roura The Forn Roura is a classic, a safe value, where the country bread cut at the moment, the chapatas, the artisan cocas and the novelty that occupies one of its windows, the glass bread. It is a lifelong bakery and the grace is that it continues with its usual appearance: the large wood and marble counter allows its diligent bakers to act quickly in the queues that form every day. José Carlos Capel, the great Spanish gastronomic expert, whose book "The Tradition of Bread in Spain" has become a "best seller", points out that Catalan bread is a sure value due to its traditional craftsmanship.
L´Obrador del Molí L´Obrador del Molí has three establishments in Barcelona , with the design by Sandra Tarruella. The interior design is sober, with some dramatic concessions. The artisans of the bread are on view so that the clients can enjoy their elaboration live with the direction of the master baker. Peter Roche . On their stone counters are displayed more than 100 bread specialties , pastries and pastries.
Behind these contemporary spaces lies the Gallés family, with more than 200 years of experience accumulated through four generations: Francesc Gallés, in 1862, started the business in his town of Castellterçol; his son Manel continued with the workshop, his grandson Pere continued with the tradition and is currently the great-grandson, Jordi Gallés, who is in charge.
**They develop bread tastings, tastings of breads from all over the world and workshops ** to publicize the processes of artisanal bread, organic bread and bread pairing. The most successful workshop is the one given to foreigners, 'Beyond pa amb tomaquet', where the pagés bread, llonguet bread and Segarra bread.
L´Obrador del Molí: contemporary bakery
Bulwark Baluard, located in the popular neighborhood of Barceloneta, is run by Anna Bellsolà (daughter, granddaughter and great-granddaughter of bakers), who has made a significant niche for herself in a traditionally male world. The enormous wood oven that presides over the space guarantees, according to the baker, the quality of more than 25 types of bread . Anna is also committed to good bread made at home: her book 'Bread at home. From the oven to the heart ', she explains step by step a process where the important thing is 100% natural flour.
Baluard: traditional bread in Barceloneta