We survive with beer and tapas in Seville during Holy Week
THURSDAY NIGHT: LA MADRUGÁ
Seville is upside down and you don't even know where to start. El Silencio, El Gran Poder, La Macarena, El Calvario, La Esperanza de Triana and Los Gitanos, are the Brotherhoods that go out in procession (in order of rigorous seniority, except La Macarena, which gives way to Christ of Great Power). The peak moments (and therefore more crowded, to take into account to attend no matter what or raffle ) are the departures and pick ups , as well as the stops at the cathedral (compulsory for all Brotherhoods). We synchronize clocks. We adjust GPS. And we begin our pilgrimage around three churches, the Chapel of the Sailors, the Basilica of the Macarena and the Basilica of the Great Power.
**CHAPEL OF THE SAILORS (Pureza street, in the Triana neighborhood)**
Here are venerated the images of the Holy Christ of the Three Falls and Our Lady of Hope . The procession starts at around 2:10 a.m., with an impressive shower of rose petals that the Trianera receives from the rooftops; passes by the cathedral at 6:15 a.m. and returns at 1:30 p.m.
Inside the Kiosk
With this long schedule you will have the opportunity to become an expert in the bars in the area. It begins with the Bar Kiosko de las Flores, on the emblematic Betis street, next to the Guadalquivir river, which has been in business for 70 years frying little fish like nobody else (very appropriate for these parties). Follow your route at El Bistec, next to the Church of Santa Ana, where we recommend the fried eggplants , and in Las Golondrinas (Antillano Campos), where you cannot miss the 'champis' and, if nobody sees you and you skip the Vigil, also the sirloin tips . Another option is to buy a good cone of fresh prawns at the La Grande San Jacinto (San Jacinto) brewery and eat it on the street.
The fried fish from the Kiosko, don't miss it
**BASILICA DE LA MACARENA (Bécquer street) **
Here you will see the Jesús de la Sentencia and the Virgen de la Esperanza Macarena. The procession leaves around midnight, to arrive at the cathedral around four hours later, picking up on Friday around 2:30 p.m. One of the things that attracts most attention is his brothers dressed in the Roman Centuria.
If there is a place where you have to be, as any little chapel would say, that is La Chacha (Resolana 6), in front of the Basilica. As you can imagine, it goes from boat to boat, so be proactive and leave with plenty of time if you want to secure the site. If things get complicated we give you an option B and even a C, the Cellar Bar Umbrete (Plaza del Pumarejo) or its neighbor the Camacho Winery.
In front of the Basilica and Tapa Rica
**BASILICA OF THE GREAT POWER (San Lorenzo square, San Lorenzo neighborhood) **
The Holy Mary of Greater Pain and Transfer and the "Lord of Seville", the Jesus of Great Power, have their permanent residence here. The departure is at 01:00 a.m., the passage through the cathedral at 03:05 a.m. and pick up at 08:00 h.
Just behind the Basilica del Gran Poder is the Bar Casa Ricardo-Antigua Casa Ovidio (Hernán Cortés 2), another of those emblematic sites of Holy Week in Seville, completely decorated with photos of the steps. Everything is delicious, but perhaps our weakness is croquettes (which in Vigilia become cod) .
Casa Ricardo Croquettes
Without having to move much, you can take the second one in Bar Eslava (Eslava 3) . For several years, he has won the prize at the Seville contest in Boca de Todos with tapas as his Egg on Boletus Sponge Cake , or your Cheese Emulsion Tomato Bread Anchovies and Green Olives from Aljarafe. If their ribs with honey and the vegetable strudel make you eyes, don't make them ugly.
Slavic Bar Cheese Emulsion
OTHER SITES OF INTEREST
If the recommendations that we have given you for the Madrugá do not seem enough to you, or you stay all Holy Week in Seville, here are other good addresses.
The Bell Confectionery . Holy Week and Seville rhyme yes or yes with torrijas . Although you can find them in many places, his, at the beginning of the well-known sierpes street, they are the best.
Bodega Antonio Romero (Antonia Diaz 19). A very popular place like the stuffed baby squid, and its great variety of montaditos such as "piripi", "sevillano" and "pringá".
Montaditos piripi from the Bodeguita Antonio Romero
** Paco Góngora Winery ** (Father Marchena 1). In this small winery that has been around for a long time, we opt for its "Góngora rolls" and their "montaditos de pringá".
El Garlochi Bar (boatmen). We leave the pearl of our recommendations for last: here is the place of an authentic little chapel . Everything in this bar refers to Holy Week, starting with its bar, which is "under a canopy", like the steps of the Brotherhoods, and continuing with its cocktails, among which the "Water of Seville" and the "Blood of Christ" . In case there was someone clueless who with all this had not noticed, the musical thread is Easter marches in a loop.
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*** You may also be interested in...**
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- Things about Seville that you will not know (even if you are from Triana)
- All the articles of Arantxa Neyra
Of all life, never fails