Contestants of the Kazakh Eagle Festival arrive with the Altai Mountains as a backdrop
"Welcome to Bayan-Ölgii ”, says Canat, our host and organizer of the kazakh eagle festival (Kazakh eagle festival), the main reason we've traveled to this remote corner of **Mongolia.** mountain range in the distance, lightly sprinkled with snow.
We are about 75 kilometers from the Russian border. With a mix of Turkish and Kazakh blood running through his veins, Canat comes off as a rough-and-tumble talker, but he's right.
Nomadic life in the Mongolian countryside lives on
The average tourist, the 'visit Mongolia in one day', never gets that far. He is not prepared to sit for two and a half hour flight from the capital, Ulaanbaatar (Ulaanbaatar), to reach the border with Russia and Kazakhstan.
Upon arrival, we see a lonely cow and sheepdog next to the small building of the Bayan-Ölgii airport, which emphasizes our feeling of being lost. They almost enter the deserted airport. The guard who just escorted us off the plane to the terminal sets out to chase the cow. The dog barks and the wind kicks up dust into the frigid air. Welcome to the Far West of Mongolia.
THE HUNTER'S HOME
The city of Bayan-Ölgii is not really the reason for our trip to this part of beautiful Mongolia. Are the Kazakh eagle hunters, or berkutchi, in the local dialect. There are **over 100 hunters (and trained eagles)** in the region of Sagsai, where it will soon take place A festival in what is little more than a village, here called Sum, less than half an hour by 4x4 from Bayan-Ölgii.
The hunters live scattered throughout the valley in simple houses or well-insulated gers, specially built to withstand heavy snowfalls. In each of the houses lives a Berkut with his family. As usual, golden eagles are taken from nests when they are too young to begin training.
An eagle rests before going hunting
Animal lovers might question this practice, but try saying so to a proud Kazakh whose ancestors have been doing it for centuries.
A golden eagle lives in 'captivity' for approximately 40 years. In other words, the hunter grows old along with his raptor and he is treated as if he were family. Better yet: these birds are treated like royalty. Are little gods with feathers, considered the most precious in these small rural homes.
OPERATION EAGLE
As with any type of sport, training is essential. Eagle hunters work hard, especially in preparation for the eagle festival.
We start with Oral, 78 years old, and her eagle, four. The goal is not just to take great photos, but to go one step further.
The idea has been around for a long time place a small camera on the back of an eagle. But it is not so simple. We consulted experts from the Denver Zoo foundation in Mongolia if it can be done without hindering or interfering with the bird. They confirm that It is not problematic... as long as we respect certain rules.
Then comes the issue of design: a flexible harness the size of this animal, where you can put the camera. Light, adaptable and strong. Thanks to Urnaa, an extremely friendly concierge at the **Kempinski hotel** in Ulaanbaatar, we found a local seamstress who made us a custom harness. We are ready for Operation Eagle.
When we first explain to Oral what we want to do with his mate, we expect some protest, but to our surprise, the hunter is fine with it. "Let's do it!" Oral jumps on his horse and we set off towards a beautiful spot.
Very carefully, we put the harness and the camera on the eagle, who is serene and calm. The sun begins to set gently and the bird waits sitting on the mountain, above us. Downstairs, his teacher watches in the distance.
Oral calls her, just as he will soon at the festival. The eagle listens, looks and takes flight. He does it at a speed of approx. 200 kilometers per hour through the steppe, without losing sight of its owner. Our camera holds up well and records how the eagle looks around and heads straight for Oral. He lands on the ground not far from the hunter, who calls out to the animal in his own language. A few seconds later, it lands on his arm.
Participants wear coats and hats made from fox fur and even wolf fur
LIKE A WESTERN SCENE
Most travelers have heard of the naadam Festival, which is celebrated in July and represents an increase in crowds, especially around Ulaanbaatar. Other smaller ones, such as the Altai Kazakh Eagle, are less popular.
According to its organizer, Canat, around 100 foreigners and almost 1,000 locals who descend from different regions to the Sagsai Valley attend. When the 50 eagle hunters ride in, against the backdrop of the snow-capped Altai Mountains, we get goosebumps.
The spotlight is fixed on those who are about to undertake some tests: making his eagle fly from the mountain and land on his arm, a camel race, exercises on horseback to pick up objects from the ground and some more controversial ones, such as the one involving a dead goat.
A strong icy wind blows across the steppe, disturbing the freshly fallen snow. The hunters don't blink an eye, dressed as they are in fox and wolf skins. We, wrapped in layers of Gore-Tex and high-tech down jackets, shiver nonstop.
A little training before the festival
A tourist makes the unfortunate decision to buy a local fur hat. During one of the exercises, an eagle thinks it's a delicious snack and swoops down to kill it. General hilarity arouses: the Kazakhs laugh, the tourists are puzzled.
Something exciting always happens at the Altai Kazakh Eagle Festival, and this means that you think twice before buying a fur hat.
OF EXTRAVAGANT JACKETS
We see that the berkutchi usually wear jackets made of fox, rabbit or marmot fur. The more extravagant the jacket, the more respected the hunter . Sometimes we see wolf skin. And it is that a strong eagle not only catches small animals, but also larger prey. And it is always the females who go hunting with the berkutchi.
It is stated that the strongest birds are those that are captured, not the ones taken from the nest at a young age. Bolat, the son of Oral, tells us that the latter are more like pets. Calmer, friendly and domestic.
The real hunters are the ones that grew up in the wild. These are the birds that can easily take on a wolf. Some are even said to be able to overpower a snow leopard.
The berkutchi only needs three things in life: a fast horse, a faithful dog to protect the house and an eagle. And it has been that way for centuries, a tradition that It has been passed down from father to son for more than 6,000 years.
An eagle hunter in the Altai
Despite this, nomadic life and eagle hunting are steadily disappearing. Many young nomads now head off to the city with a smartphone in the pocket of their fur coat, as the skills and knowledge of their ancestors are no longer so easily passed down.
When we return to Oral's house after the festival it is twilight time and we see a rabbit hopping across the steppe. Bolat stops and Noks, his youngest child, pulls out a rifle. He points and shoots, not with an iPhone, in this case. Although the new generations move to the city, they continue to carry the Berkutchi hunting instinct in their blood. Here, in the Far West of Mongolia, they would not allow his disappearance.
WHO TO GO WITH
360 Degrees Mongolian
We traveled to Mongolia with the 360 Degrees Mongolia agency, which offers unique experiences. It costs about 350 euros/three days per person to attend the festival, domestic flights excluded. The visa costs about 50 euros.
HOW TO GET
Air China
The flight from Beijing to UB takes two hours and tickets cost around 250 euros, round trip. Etihad Airways flies several times a week from Madrid to Beijing from around 2,400 euros, return, in Pearl (business) class.
Turkey Airlines
Another option is the Turkish airline from Istanbul to Ulaanbaatar, from 700 euros.
Protective hat for the eagle when resting inside the yurts
WHAT TO KNOW
In Mongolia you pay with the tugrik: 1 euro is equivalent to about 3,000 tugrik. Money can be obtained through ATMs in many places in the capital, and most cards are accepted in hotels, shops and larger restaurants. The US dollar is also widely used. It is a very safe country.
WHEN TO GO
The Kazakh Eagle Festival is held every year during the month of September. Accommodation is usually in a guest house in the city and there are also options to stay with a family of eagle hunters, although in very humble conditions (bring a sleeping bag). The best period is from May to November, before the freezing cold. The high season, July and August, culminates with the Nadaam Festival in July.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Kempinski Khan
The best hotel to stay in Ulaanbaatar is the Kempinski Khan Palace Ulaanbaatar. The service is excellent, the breakfast is fantastic, and if you get tired of eating the food of the country, there are two excellent Japanese restaurants and the hotel's Italian cuisine is amazing. Prices start at around 120 euros per night for a double room.
A horseman climbs the hill to get a better view of the landscape and hunting grounds