Rome: with children in the city
THE BEST ATTITUDE
Although everything seems chaotic, try to keep a good mood. The Romans still dream of ruling the world and almost any taxi driver feels like Julius Caesar. Nothing you can say will make him change his mind. The key to to enjoy Rome is to relax and thus avoid cultural indigestion. Don't underestimate children. If you organize a pleasant and short route for the most important places, they will be able to absorb much more than you imagine. Be selective: even if you like emperors or popes, you could spend a lifetime to get the point of Roman history. It is better not to try.
MINI-CULTURES
A good place to start is to take the glass elevator to the roof of the Victor Emmanuel II monument , also known as the wedding cake . The views are second to none and the guard's impeccable attire will blow your mind. And remember that everything that has to do with death fascinates them . Take a stroll through the Catacombs, always **deliciously cool in the heat of the Roman summer**, or through the Crypt of Santa María de la Concepción , with its bizarre decoration made from the bones of 4,000 monks, will catch the attention of the most disinterested.
One of the many gladiators in the Eternal City. Photos
ARTISTIC TOUCH
The only piece of art that arouses the interest of children is the **magnificent fresco of the dome of Saint Ignatius of Loyola**, painted by the great artist Andrea Pozzo when the church lacked the funds to pay for a real dome. If the children stand on the marble disc in the center of the ship, they will have a hard time perceiving that the roof is actually flat.
THE BEST GUIDE
John Fort has been a guide to Rome for decades. He is excellent at recreating times past in the Rome of the present. His experience in myths and legends of Greek and Roman culture, seasoned by the passion for ice cream (his favorite of his is Il Gelato di San Crispino's wild honey from Sardinia), making him the ideal guide for children.
The garden with swimming pool of Villa Nocetta.
THE BEST SWEET PRIZE
The cobblestone pathway from San Ignacio is the legendary Giolitti ice cream parlor. Waiters in white jackets with gold brocades quickly dispatch hungry hordes that fill the most refined ice cream parlor , if not all of Italy, then the Eternal City. The flavors vary according to the season of the year, but to become the envy of the most capricious ask for the Giolitti cup , a sundae with Chocolate ice cream, pastry cream, sabayon and cream with hazelnut shavings.
A PERFECT AFTERNOON
The Villa Borghese Gardens, which stretch along 59 hectares , they have merry-go-rounds, perfectly climbable trees, a small zoo and a boating pond . They also boast of the charming Cinema dei Piccoli , the only Roman cinema exclusively for children, and an excellent cafe next door. On weekends, the paved streets fill with cyclists, skaters and golf carts, which you can rent at the entrance of Viale Trinità dei Monti. Unlike most vehicles, these carts have unlimited access to the historic center, which prevents the little ones from getting tired, as they go through different moments of Rome's history, from the ancient basilicas to the baroque fountains of Piazza Navona and the avant-garde glass box that covers the Ara Pacis altar.
The Roman Forum, one of the favorite visits of the little ones.
THE BEST GETAWAY
To catch the true essence of daily life of the ancient world , go to the archaeological site of Ostia Antica, which functioned as a Roman port, and is a short train ride . Organize a picnic under the shade of a pine tree , while the children run smoothly through the ruins.
THE BEST SECRET FOR A ROMAN
Recently opened by a member of the renowned Antinori wine family, Fattoria di Fiorano is a beautiful working farm with vineyard which you arrive by car from the center through the Appian Way. In addition to an incredible **restaurant with a children's menu (€16, only from Friday to Sunday) **, the farm offers regular cooking classes and more activities for children. For the pizza making , for example, start by collecting ingredients from around the farm, such as wheat, tomato, basil and eggs , to later get lost working with their hands in the dough. For parents, it is possible to arrange an organic wine tasting in the basement of the farm.
Interior of Villa Nocetta.
DRESS UP GAMES
Near Rome, at the beginning of the Via Appia is the famous gladiator school , where your seven-year-old Russell Crowe wannabe was able to learn the art of gladiatorial battle. Each session lasts just over two hours, and includes a visit to the Museum of the Roman Invincible Army . The participants wear robes and they are decorated with certificates which they then hang on the walls of their room. On the other hand, you can go to the Cinecittá World theme park, which opened last summer. Beyond roller coasters and bumper cars, it is best to dress up in togas to recreate the famous scenes from Ben Hur and Cleopatra in its original location.
A PERFECT BRUNCH FOR LARGE APPETITES
If you're not lucky enough to stay at JK Place Roma, this boutique hotel hosts brunch on the weekend. The menu is amazing: the bread is made in one of the best bakeries in Rome, Roscioli, the cheeses are from Latium and the pasta, like their sublime cacio e pepe, is made to order. And there is more, children under 10 enter free.
Il Pesciolino Rosso toy store.
PIZZA
The children they love street food , and Rome boasts some of the best options in Italy . You'll find pizza al taglio (by the slice) just about anywhere, but connoisseurs go in search of the amazing flavor of pizza offerings. Pizzarium, next to the Vatican . In Antico Forno Roscioli , located in the Campo dei Fiori vegetable market, the pink pizza is even better than their amazing bread.
LUNCH
Gusto Osteria has exposed brick walls and marble bars that display antipasti during the aperitif. Next to Piazza Augusto Imperatore , where takes place mini cooper race between the columns in Italian Job, making it an attraction in itself for young and old. For a taste of ancient Rome, **join the legions of Roman families who have filled La Campana for centuries**. What they say is the oldest restaurant in Rome (from the 16th century), what is interesting here is its traditional Roman cuisine such as carciofi alla giudia (fried artichokes) and coda alla vaccinara (oxtail stew), both on the menu of the day.
The Ara Pacis altar, dedicated to the goddess Pax.
DINNER
The Enoteca Corsi, located in a small street behind the Pantheon It looks like a real find. The neighboring wine shop closes at one in the afternoon to allow the trestle tables to be placed between wines and crates. The lively atmosphere makes it a very fun place and the food is simple but good, with a choice of three starters and main courses. Open for dinner only Thursday and Friday.
STONES STOP
The Canova Tadolini Museum is filled with plaster casts of sculptures by Antonio Canova and Adamo Tadolini, giving a feeling of being in the a sculptor's studio , just as it was during the Grand Tour era. The sculptures scattered around the cafeteria and restaurant give the place a cultural touch along with a shot of espresso.
A delicious pizza al taglio at Pizzarium, near the Vatican.
WONDERFUL SHOPS
Parents and children alike will enjoy the Ferrari store on Via Tomacelli , where they can get a photo of Formula 1 cars. A short walk away, there is the option of LittleBigTown , the largest toy store in Italy , or the tiny Pesciolino Rosso , near the steps of the Piazza di Spagna, which sells charming hand-made Pinocchio figures.
GOOD DESCENT
It will be useful for you to know that the Rome Cavalieri hotel, which treasures three pools , allows non-residents to escape from the scorching city. Come at any time, or better during weekend brunch when the boys can paint your face, enjoy bouncy castles, an ice cream parlor and learn to make pizza . It is not a cheap plan, since it costs about €38 per child , but mamma mia, they have caregivers so that parents can also rest.
Il Pesciolino Rosso toy store.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Hotel De Russie (HD: from €505) remains the Rome's number one address. Its design is fresh and sophisticated, the light-filled suites are grand, and the location on Piazza del Popolo is exactly where you'll want to be. Best of all are their spectacular gardens , a magical getaway for children who need relief . Recently the hotel has presented a program for teenagers capable of motivating the most taciturn. It consists of discovering the city through the sport, fashion and cinema . It helps a lot that the most attractive guides in the city are in charge of your itinerary.
The Hotel De Russie overlooks the Piazza del Popolo.
Casa Howard (HD: from €69) is one of the real estate secrets of the city, located on a street near the steps of Piazza di Spagna . There are five rooms of completely different styles: the Chinese room, for example, is adorned with glamorous silks; while the white room is something of a fresh combination of Toile de Jouy fabrics and delicate antique furniture . We admit it, you will have to go down a corridor to get to the bathroom, but they will make it easier for you with kimonos and slippers.
Yes you insist on coming in july or august Villa Nocetta (from €9,000, two nights), with its large pool and jasmine-scented gardens, is stupendous. It's a royal retreat where ten perfectly sleep . Nicolás, the driver, will take you wherever you want. You also have a cook and a charming housekeeper, Tiziana, who is able to make an appointment with a gladiator for private lessons.
* This article is published in the May 84 issue of the Condé Nast Traveler magazine. This number is available in its digital version for iPad in the iTunes AppStore, and in the digital version for PC, Mac, Smartphone, iPad and iPhone in the Zinio virtual kiosk (on Smartphone devices: Android, PC/Mac, Win8, WebOS, Rim, iPad, iPhone). Also, you can find us on Google Play Newsstand (for Android smartphones and tablets) .
A Roman courtyard.