Cooked sushi? This is the reinvention of Madrid cuisine
The cuisine of Madrid is curious . On the one hand, it has its origin in what was already eaten in Castile in the sixteenth century, when Felipe II decided that this would be the capital of Spain. For another, is hospitable : everyone who has settled here has left their mark. In Madrid they eat calçots, cachopo, gurumelos and rice a banda as genuine as they would make them in their provinces, because surely they are people from those provinces who prepare them.
What we mean by Madrid cuisine they are dishes that arise in taverns and bars (how strange, in Madrid), they are fast, caloric (important in a city of workers) and tasty . Local chefs have taken a long time to dare to review traditional Madrid dishes, read cooked, tripe and others . This willingness to reinvent something humble and popular and give it a more 2016 shape was inevitable. We'll see now, taking advantage of San Isidro , some examples of castiza neocuisine . And this is just the beginning.
**THE NEW LIFE OF COCIDO**
The quintessential cat dish . In Madrid you eat in three turns, and this is not questioned because his surname is, precisely, "Madrilenian". After centuries eating 1) soup 2) legumes and vegetables and 3) meat and sausages, something is changing in Cocidolandia. Almost everyone likes stew, but is afraid to eat it: too long, too intense, too wintery, too... cooked.
Some restaurants, like **El Gato Canalla**, go to great lengths to lighten them up. This restaurant (which belongs to the Hotel Índigo Gran Vía) serves Love for Madrid ; this recipe that turns it into Madrid stew consommé, with low-temperature egg and Iberian minced meat. There is no reason to stop eating cooked in summer . Other restaurants propose using the same ingredients and flavors of the stew in other formats borrowed from other cultures. For example, ** Dachshund ** works cooked sushi . It is a way to unite Shibuya and Sol. ** La Candela Restó ** proposes to make Pringá Dumplings . They serve it on their menu together with the stew broth. A new era begins for the pringá, these proposals seem to tell us.
Japanese purebred power!
**REINVENTING THE SQUID SANDWICH **
It is said of the dish that many of those who come to Madrid expect to eat and that those who live in Madrid hardly eat . Often happens; we are not going to see either The Garden of Earthly Delights every six months. This sandwich is a contradiction, like Madrid. On the one hand, the sea is hours away, but on the other, it has this down-to-earth, friendly (and battered) personality of the city itself.
Sergio Arola served in his restaurants ( Sergi Arola, Sot and VI Cool ) the version of it, made with Black bread with squid ink and 'lemon' mayonnaise and baby squid . The ** Hotel Villamagna **, on the occasion of San Isidro, serves a menu inspired by Madrid gastronomy. It includes a **Squid sandwich, ink muffin, lamb's lettuce and Vera paprika mayonnaise (for €12.00)**. The menu will be available until May 31.
Hotel Villamagna squid sandwich
In ** Mitte **, a new restaurant in Chueca, they play with traditional flavors, whether it be squid or violet. One of the dishes on their menu is Squid muffin Madrid style with green lime ali oli and arugula . It also has ali oli from the squid ink itself, the version of The Scoundrel Cat : in this case, chefs Julio López and Rikardo Robles serve them over focaccia and, instead of squid, we find their cousins, baby squid. Sometimes the variants come for the bread. In ** Eighty Degrees ** (Malasaña and Las Tablas) they offer it in pan de cristal and in La Vanduca, in Mollete de Antequera.
80 degree squid sandwich
These dishes take advantage of the sandwich/sandwich of squid is a dish that falls quite nice . In addition, it is easy to add some complexity and some other flavor or color. Now, the locals (always difficult to please) will ask for them much more frequently.
The modern squid between breads
OFFERINGS, THE HIT
The Tasqueria it is the founding space of an ideology: **that of the offal**. This space opened last year by the hand of Javier Estevez crossing two very Madrid concepts: tavern and offal . It is not for all audiences but it is for many audiences, more than it seems. It supposes a new way (funny, contemporary) of dealing with offal. The religion of tripe, tongue, brains and gizzards has many believers.
The tripe are one of the best known ingredients of traditional cuisine , so practical and popular she. The new restaurants experiment with them in their menus. ** Bacira ** makes a tripe with panca chili and curry.
Tripe with panca chili and curry
** Gourmet Bar **, in Sanchinarro, serves them with lime, which always adds vibrancy. His dish is called Madrid-Lima tripe casserole. In ** Mitte **, bent on revising local ingredients and mixing them with others from far away, a tripe brioche . These restaurants pretend remove that coarse food varnish and winter they have. Even those who say they don't like them always try the sauce. Oh cowards...
tripe with lime
THE OTHER BULL'S TAIL
One of the classic ingredients of Madrid bars is also being reviewed. Now, after centuries without touching the original recipe, it is played with. For example, the oxtail is likely to be included in a brioche . This is how they prepare it
** DOMO by Roncero & Cabrera **, by chef Luis Bartolomé and located in the NH Collection Eurobuilding hotel; what's more, they add sweet onion . It can also be eaten in rolls, Asian style. This is how they prepare it The Scoundrel Cat , accompanied by candied pears with a reduction of sweet wine from Madrid. The dish is called something to fight . César Galán makes Ravioli stuffed with oxtail at ** Teckel ** and at ** La Posada del León de Oro **, located in La Latina, they serve it boneless on a light mashed sweet potato and sweet potato. The San Isidro Menu at the Hotel Villamagna cannot be missing: it proposes a dish called Mille-feuille of oxtail stewed with wine D.O. “Wines from Madrid” and candied potato.
The ** Hotel Vincci Soho ** also offers a special menu on the occasion of San Isidro. They have prepared it in collaboration with Triciclo , yes, that place where we always want to go but where it is so hard for us to find a table. The superstars of Madrid cuisine will be present and, among them, the tripe. In this case, very discreetly: only in sauce and accompanying a potato omelette skewer . This menu can be tasted on May 13 and 14 on the hotel terrace.
Boneless oxtail on a sweet potato and sweet potato purée
AND FOR DESSERT?
One of the best things that has happened to Spanish in recent years has been **the deseasonalisation of torrija**. There is already torrija all year round, good luck. Not only that, but more and more you play with its ingredients, flavors and formats giving pleasure to the universe . At ** Bacira ** they serve a Caramelized French toast with vanilla and lemongrass soup with cinnamon ice cream . Little joke. At ** Sushita Café **, in their new and beautiful location on Calle Miguel Ángel, they offer Torrijas in the form of ice cream in tempura . His set of temperatures is suggestive. ** Juanjo López, from La Tasquita de Enfrente ** prepares it in brioche bread and baked instead of fried; he finishes it off with a splash of virgin olive oil.
Violets are another flavor more Madrid than a walk through the Reti on a sunny day . At ** La Posada del Dragón ** a dessert called, La Antonita Soap , in homage to the soap factory that existed in this place. It is like a special bar of soap made with white chocolate and violet flavour. Violets, these very fragrant candies, are also present in the proposal of Tricycle for Vincci Soho . The name of the dessert is Anise, violets, strawberries from Aranjuez and lemon. Testing it is urgent.
Fake torrija from La Tasquita de Enfrente
THE BOX SAN ISIDRO
Madrid's neo cuisine sneaks into hotels and restaurants throughout Madrid. It is a quiet but persistent revolution. The ** NH Collection Abascal ** echoes this trend and presents the Box San Isidro . It is an idea of DOMO by Roncero&Cabrera. This curious menu kept in a box has been designed by Paco Roncero (two Michelin stars) and produced by Angel Aylagas (executive chef of NH Collection Abascal). It can be ordered from May 14 to 16 and consists of twelve proposals divided into two starters, nine tapas and dessert . Here will be the stars of traditional gastronomy passed by the hand of Roncero. Some examples of this walk through Madrid are the Tiger, ham and baby squid delicacies , the Potato omelette with brava sauce, Squid sandwich with yellow ajioli, Little soldiers of Pavia or chocolate and aniseed custard with punk churros.
Neither boring, nor light, nor old. This is a good example of the possibilities of Madrid cuisine. The underlying idea is that, now, in Madrid, people come to eat Madrid cuisine. That's how cool this city is. When it sets, it sets.
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The box of neodelights from Madrid... of a lifetime