The tourist 'must' are overrated
Although it is something obvious, we do not hesitate for a second to insist: Zurich hides in its streets as many attractions as our mind can imagine.
What do we want history? a walk through its historic center It takes us by the hand to past times. What do we want to relax? nothing better to do a boat tour on the fabulous lake from Zurich. Do we prefer to throw heritage? A route through its most outstanding churches It will give us the dose we need. Better a bath of culture? The museum offer it is infinite.
Zurich like a local? Of course!
But it is that Zürich is much more than what guides and lists tell us with all its charms. Zurich hides a B-side. And it is that other facet that includes fashion brands and shops created by local designers, vertigo viewpoints in which we let ourselves fall in love -even more- with this city and a gastronomic offer that manages to excite those most foodie spirits.
It also has proposals for those who know enjoy life based on dips in their badis -That's what they call their bathing areas- and for the most alternative souls. All this without forgetting his admirable urban art or its night offer: in Zurich, the leisure proposals last as long as one wants to hold on.
A route through that other face of Zurich could start, why not, at any of its viewpoints. It is worth getting a preliminary idea of the dimensions of this Swiss city that is home to approximately one and a half million inhabitants.
The most complete panorama is the one that can be enjoyed from Karlsturm, one of the towers of the church of Grössmunster. And so, by the way, we let ourselves be fooled by the cloister and the crypt of this Romanesque temple founded by Charlemagne himself.
The most complete panorama is enjoyed from Karlsturm
Another postcard that is not bad at all is the one obtained from Lindenhoff, a charming park located in the Alstadt, the old quarter of the city, and that looks face to face to the Limago River. If the views are not enough, we can always watch how the locals play chess with giant pieces at one end of the park. A most popular pastime.
By the way, did you know that for the University of Zurich have passed up to 32 Nobel Prizes? Even Einstein attended class in his classroom! And probably all of them had the same face as us when we discovered the Polyterrasse, a wide esplanade-belvedere next to the main university building whose huge red benches are comfortable, original and perfect for simply enjoying watching life go by.
For the most demanding -also for lovers of gastronomy- the views can always be combined with a good dinner and -not to be missed- an exquisite glass of wine. In George's Bar & Grill live music puts the icing on the cake and gives a unique experience.
And since we are talking about good food, how about some proposals? Zurich is one of the most cosmopolitan cities in Europe and that is also reflected at the table. For this reason, when it comes to considering what to put in our mouths, it is most likely that indecision will take over us.
Frau Gerolds Garten, the peaceful garden where you can enjoy a 'fondue'
do we bet on a bit of traditional cuisine? Great, our place is Zunfthaus zur Waag , a peculiar restaurant where creativity in its dishes is the main ingredient. Located in an old building that served as the base for the wool guild 700 years ago, we cannot leave without trying its mythical Zürcher Geschnetzeltes : Zürich-style sliced beef served with a creamy sauce.
At Zeughauskeller , however, the dishes of a lifetime are served at a shared table where, while tasting the most authentic flavors of Switzerland, we can make as many friends as we wish. Of course, if what we prefer is to snack on some snacks and have the richest vermouth in the whole city , we will have to go to Frau Gerolds Garten , a peaceful garden that opened in 2012 as a temporary project and that seven years later it is still at the foot of the canyon.
Vegetarian cuisine has its space in proposals such as Hilltl , which also boasts of being the first vegetarian restaurant in the world; in Beetnut , where they defend transparency about the origin and quality of the product before all things; or in Les Halles , an old warehouse converted into a restaurant-bar. Warning to non-vegetarians! Here they serve the best mussels in the world. And we are not exaggerating.
Those with a more exotic appetite will find the dilemma between Lebanese delights at Maison Blunt and ramen at Miki Ramen. Eah, we are already satisfied!
To continue living the city we decided to let ourselves be carried away by the most alternative environment: we ended up in the district of Zürich-West, where the 30 arches of the old viaduct – Im Viadukt - from 1894 today house a multitude of joints, local designer shops and all kinds of innovative businesses. All watered by original murals that will fill our Instagram account with life and color.
A little further away, next to Lake Zurich, is the **Le Corbusier Pavilion**, the last work -and perhaps one of the best- that the Swiss architect left as a legacy to the city. It is constructed of steel and glass and in it exhibitions about his life and his projects are organized.
Maison Blunt
In Zurich there is Le Corbusier for a while, and if you want to delve even deeper into his work, there is nothing like approaching the Museum für Gestaltung . Among its 50,000 objects there are also works by designers such as René Burri or Herbert Matter.
Speaking of art! How about we explore the city in search of its most outstanding street art samples? Zürich has always opted to bring all kinds of works closer to the public and this has made the city becomes a huge canvas in which artists from all over the world have left their mark over the years. Going out to discover them is quite an adventure.
We bet, first of all, on Heureka , a work that we have to admit fascinates us. Is machine invented by Jean Tingueli absolutely no use, but hey, it works. To contemplate this amalgamation of pans, wheels and steel bars we'll have to go as far as Lake Zurich.
in the commercial Banhofstrasse left his stamp Max Bill with his Pavillon-Skulptur , a set of 36 granite blocks so large that you can walk between them. The offer of urban art continues: until 1,300 works are scattered throughout the public spaces of Zurich. The number impresses, huh?
Im Viadukt: shops, art and alternative entertainment under the viaduct
Of course: one of the most popular works is, without a doubt, L'ange protecteur , which rules since 1997 the roof of the Central Station. Is about one of the 'Nanas' of the French Niki de Saint Phalle , this time in the form of a guardian angel, and is responsible for welcoming travelers and locals from above.
Something less novel, although very, very surprising, is found in the vaults of a peculiar police station. Located in the heart of Zurich, it was ** Augusto Giacometti ** who was in charge of giving life and color to what, in the past, was an orphanage.
It turns out that at this point in the article we are getting into a party mood: we want to march! And bingo! turns out Zurich has a lively nightlife full of plans and proposals that adapt to all profiles.
One of the places to visit without a doubt is The Stanza , a cute Italian cafe inspired by the 30s in which the best espresso is served to you as well as an exquisite glass of wine.
As sometimes you want to accompany the drinks with something to snack on. In that case, no problem: in Stubä they serve one extensive menu of gourmet sandwiches that make sense. In Dante , for their part, are betting –and we are betting- on the gin and tonic: they have a variety of up to 80 different brands; Meanwhile in Raygrodsky is the live music which makes our evening happy.
The gin and tonic is taken in Dante
To recover from a night spent exploring Swiss nightlife, nothing better than visiting a refreshing bath. As we are one of those who take to the letter that "wherever you go, do what you see", we put on the swimsuit and we jump into the water in the traditional badis.
And the first stop is at one of the most popular: Seebad Utoquai . Built in 1890 by William Henri Martin , this bathroom takes more than 120 years offering its clients all kinds of services: In addition to access to a limited area of Lake Zurich, it also has two swimming pools for non-swimmers and solariums, all of them separated by sex.
And from one of the oldest, to the youngest: we continue our route of badis in Seebad Enge , where we cheer up with other activities such as SUP (Stand up paddle), shiatsu or yoga. Frauenbad , a gorgeous bathroom designed in an art deco style, is for women only; while men have their space in Mannerbad .
To finish off our first experience as bathers in Zurich, and say 'goodbye' to the city in passing, we opted for Flussbad Ober Letten. East Modernist-style bathroom was designed by architect Elsa Burckhardt-Blum in the early 1950s and it is the ideal place to, once assimilated this new version of Zurich, return home. Of course, with a very different vision of Zurich from the one we brought when we landed.
Flussbad Oberer Letten