Dips in the desert of Almería
There are corners of Almeria which are pure cinematographic scenery. Landscapes in which it seems that at any moment a horse-drawn stagecoach will appear or a group of bison will cross the plain. It is right there where, unexpectedly, the water makes its way between canyons patiently excavated by the Andarax River.
The Canals of Padules they are an unexpected aquatic landscape turned into an oasis in the desert of Almería. Also the perfect excuse to enter this arid territory in search of r refreshing corners, pools where you can take a dip and a fun tour Full of surprises that you won't want to leave. A piece of advice: although summer is the perfect time to discover this place, don't rule out spring or early fall. This is the desert and the heat is almost always at home.
The water makes its way between canyons patiently excavated by the Andarax River
Less than an hour from the capital of Almería, Padules is a small town with low houses and just over 400 inhabitants where everything happens at a different pace. Agriculture is the main source of support for the economy and the church of Santa María la Mayor, in the Mudejar style and built in the 14th century, is its largest building.
A priori, it is a town that, perhaps, you will pass by in search of a deeper Alpujarra or towards the Tabernas desert, a stone's throw away. But think better. It is worth turning on the indicator, passing by the old wine jars that serve as access to the municipality, enjoying the delicious wisteria that grow at the entrance and head south towards Las Canales de Padules. Before, do not miss the romance of The habaqui asks his highness for peace , written on one of the walls of charm street.
A well-signposted track easily leads to a large car park where you can leave your vehicle. You might be tempted to go a little further down the road, but access is prohibited to preserve the environment.
Already walking, a couple of curves later, there is an amazing waterfall that appears out of nowhere and a cave house with a terrace and so good looking that you will want to stay and live. Nearby, another sign directs us towards the canals, which are accessed by a dirt path that descends quietly and crosses curious natural tunnels of reeds.
The Andarax riverbed is encased between high stone and mud walls
The croaking of frogs, the sound of hundreds of birds and the sound of water grow louder as we walk along the ruins of an old mill until, barely ten minutes after the start of the route, we reach the water. It is time to start going up the Andarax river.
Here it is impossible not to get wet: the channel is encased between high walls of stone and mud. Get out your swimsuit, put on some booties or some old sneakers (or whatever you see fit) and enjoy the refreshing water that springs from the heart of the Sierra Nevada, about 20 kilometers further west, in Laujar de Andarax.
The route is simple and suitable for the whole family, although small waterfalls force you to walk carefully and can be a bit complex for the little ones. For an adult, on the other hand, the water will barely reach their knees in some sections, although it is good to be careful because the stones are slippery and in some areas the bottom accumulates mud, complicating the walk.
luckily also there are some small, waist-deep pools that are perfect for a soak. The water is as cold as it is clean and bathing in it is a gift, even more so in the summer. Tell that to David Bisbal, who popularized this corner when he visited it in 2016 and recorded himself jumping.
If you go easy and don't make any noise, you will be able to see huge toads
If a few meters above the landscape is desert, below nature looks tropical. The entire riverbank is full of ferns dripping down the walls, flowering oleander and fig trees pointing ways everywhere. There are cane fields constants, like thorny brambles waves yellow gayombas. If you go easy and don't make any noise, you will hear incredible songs from tiny little birds and you can see little frogs Y huge toads in water. The colorful dragonflies they will dance around you, like butterflies. And do not rule out that some Mountain goat I looked at you from above wondering: Can I go down there too? The marks of their hoofs on the banks show that they do, even if it is only to drink. Or so they say.
Slowly, the path skirts around nooks and crannies where nature narrows -so much so that there are times when you can touch the Sierra de Gádor and Sierra Nevada at the same time - and then appear larger areas with small beaches in which to let time pass.
A little less than two kilometers after the start you will arrive at the area called the crabs, recognizable because there is a small wooden bridge that crosses the river and, on the slope, a wide and stepped recreational area. Also an amazing restaurant, Grandma's Grinder, that mixes the country aesthetic with that of a beach bar to become something unique.
El Molinillo de la Abuela mixes the country aesthetic with that of a beach bar to become something unique
If there is strength, the walk can be continued until another waterfall, which serves as the culmination for the aquatic getaway, where there is also an ancient aqueduct. Nearby, in what is now a dry land, it is said that there was a large forest that was cut down to build the ships of the Invincible Armada at the end of the 16th century, although history has been in charge of demonstrating that there is much more to urban legend than reality.
The area is ideal for finding shade and spending a picnic day between baths and sandwiches, with the option of resting later in the Almocita campsite, tiny town just a couple of kilometers away.
Next to the river he has his cave house Christopher Barea, an emigrant who after working for decades outside of his town came back to him. The dwelling is defended by Sign, a lazy boxer. There, Christopher It tells stories of his travels, about the old cave that his ancestors excavated or shows the fossils found in the area. He also talks about the eagle owl family that lives nearby and he has made his nest with sheaves of branches or how, when he was a child, the flow of the river was used to make light.
“Las Canales was the best kept secret in Almería until the internet was invented and then Bisbal made it known to the whole world”, tells this unique neighbor who invites some wines and recommends, to have a drink, go to the Barea Granados winery. "But beware, they are not family or anything," he says with a laugh.
The cave house of Cristóbal Barea
This beautiful establishment, with a large terrace, is one of the places that both Padules and the surrounding municipalities offer to practice the Almerian art of tapas or sit down with a table and tablecloth to enjoy meat, Mediterranean fish and good traditional stews that they prepare in practically any business. The winery is a good restaurant where Savor the local tradition together with the wine they make in the house with the vines they grow in the area.
Yes, although you may not have thought of it a priori, this area also has a good number of hectares of vineyards from which they depart tasty whites, rosés and reds. And pair luxuriously with the classic Alpujarra dish, grilled meats or salads who serve here
The thirty different croquettes that they make at the Abad restaurant are another attraction in Padules, although not far away, just six kilometers from there, Canjáyar also offers tapas and good portions at La Tahá, which has a nice patio shaded by a vine. Good spoon dishes like fennel stew or cuttlefish casserole with potatoes are perfect for starting the menu, which you can continue with a wide range of meats -secret, prey, knuckle, churrasco, sirloin, choto, feather, turkey thigh, among others- as well as broad beans with ham or grilled vegetables with melva. The almond flan -one of the few trees that grows peacefully in this arid environment- is ideal for finishing.
Let's practice the Almerian art of tapas
a few meters away, Joaquin's bar It also has a wide catalog of tapas and, two steps away, Gloria's Bakery offers village breads, traditional sweets and local products. There is also oil mills where to stock up on rich oil and the hermitage of San Blas offers 360-degree panoramic views of the area. Marks on the ground are also used to traverse an open museum with tile compositions that recall some of the historical moments and traditions of the town.
Other than that, it's worth it. the excursion to Ohanes, A small town with an Alpujarra aesthetic that stands on a ravine: you can get there by a couple of roads with infinite curves. It also can continue towards the Alpujarra of Granada or go down towards Rágol or Instinción, towns along the Andarax river full of orchards and light pine forests prior to the Tabernas desert.
Either way, you probably want to go back to the origin, go down to Las Canales de Padules and check that no, that the incredible water route you have done was not a mirage. Do we repeat?