La Tasquita de Enfrente, 35 years between stoves and artists from Madrid
In a place in Ballesta whose name I will always remember, my father Gaona, who was called that way because of his resemblance to the Mexican bullfighter Rodolfo Gaona, bequeathed me his most beloved possession: The Tasquita in front . He supposed the effort of many years of deprivation, since he arrived from Somiedo at the age of fourteen ( Asturias ) to eat the world. He slept in the worst restaurants where he worked and worked eighteen-hour days with great discipline. Finally he got the dream of his but, as with almost all fantasies, you never become aware that you have achieved them . Months before inaugurating the new Tasquita he passed away. In silence, with his look that expressed everything, and with the dignity of a great anonymous man.
One of the star dishes of La Tasquita de Enfrente: Russian salad with trout caviar
During that period of 35 years, La Tasquita, due to its location, was a pilgrimage center for journalists, actors, comedians at the beginning of their careers and, especially, whores. Or as I like to call them, sex therapists. If you observe the type of clients who come punctually to their weekly appointments, you would understand the reason for this statement.
At the time, the street was full of 'hostesses', as they were known, with names such as You and Me, Him and Her, Edinburgh, Moroco, Amador.... My father served breakfasts consisting of beers, shots of wine, and French omelette sandwiches with peppers and artisan sausages. A day of more than three hundred sandwiches was usual.
They came mainly from ** Cadena Ser **, Telefónica, from the newspaper Informaciones, from Sepu (a department store of the time and which had the first escalators) and from the best-known language school of the time, Mangold, whose directors came every day to La Tasquita for a Dry Martini as an aperitif. I secretly admired them. Don Guillermo and Don Roberto, that's what they were called, even though they were British. They were tall, elegant, timeless, in black and white, like the movies of the time and always with a Dry Martini in hand . That's how I remember them. They were possibly my first contact with what has later become my life. After eating, in the afternoons, they only had glasses of whiskey .
Juanjo López directs La Tasquita de Enfrente
At that time there were no gastronomic guides, no reviews, no internet. Communication was eminently oral, word of mouth. Writing these lines I have found two texts from the time in which La Tasquita is cited. In Sin in Madrid , from the year 1976, the great Antonio Olano comments the following: "La Tasquita de Enfrente, one of the most typical places of tasqueo". and in the book Typ. wit poet , by Pilar Blanco, this conversation appears transcribed: "And when did we let ourselves be invited by friends?", says Coll. "Which was almost always, because we had some excellent friends, it must be said," adds Tip. "We waited for someone to say the typical phrase: 'Where are we going to eat?' And we always answered: 'Ah! Well, where you want. And one day, this one –says Coll referring to Tip– stole a cheese in a bar called La Tasquita de Enfrente”.
Those were other times, and it seems to me that they will never return, but I will never forget them and they are definitely part of my gastro-culinary genome, the same one that helped me build who I am today.
The essential baba with rum and sour cream from La Tasquita de Enfrente
I can say that I fulfilled the will of my father . In this way, and after a journey of more than twenty-two years navigating in the world of private enterprise, I reopened the doors of La Tasquita de Enfrente. It was 1999.
The beginnings were hard but, like all, exciting and fun. I have to admit that I had the help of Mercedes, today my ex-partner and who directs his personal project next to the Teatro Real, The Royal Tapas . And from here I send my thanks for his support, effort and patience. Good luck Mercedes.
Talking about oneself and La Tasquita is difficult, especially when one goes to weekly therapy to solve the problems of ego and learn to find happiness in the simplest things and seemingly unnoticed.
Chema Madoz is one of the most loyal customers of La Tasquita de Enfrente
I will try to describe La Tasquita by what we find inside and by its philosophy. When we entered the restaurant we were faced a space from the end of the 19th century , with an ad hoc decoration, presided over at the entrance by an eclectic altarpiece where gods, figures and symbols of all religions congregate. Also, I am going to reveal one of my secrets. Strategically arranged they are the ashes of my father and my grandmother . Why? Because the two of them were possibly the two people who have most influenced my life and because I know that from the first day they exercised over me, and over this place, the necessary help for this to continue.
Already in the hall of nine tables, with a strong personal style, are the works of art. Always from friends who are part of the memory and soul of La Tasquita de Enfrente. Because La Tasquita one loves it or hates it . I do not pretend to like or please, I only intend to create a space where people meet and I with them. Sometimes I compare cooking to magic and La Tasquita is close-up magic. We do not do big tricks, we only intend to excite.
The artist Fernando Bellver, with his eternal pipe, opens the doors of his studio on a ground floor that is very close to La Tasquita
There are many friends who drop by La Tasquita de Enfrente. When they do, they leave their artistic imprint on the walls:
- Gallant : neighbor, painter and friend where they exist.
- Fernando Bellver : walking and provocative talent without limit. His work not only appears on the walls, but also fills in the dampness of the premises that, over the years, appear. He has made it possible for them to have the category of a work of art today.
- Chema Madoz : friend and magic eye of society and the objects that surround us.
- Alfred and his angels: friend, designer and resident of Switzerland. During his stay in Madrid he came to see me every day and painted in unimaginable places.
- Abraham Macineiras : friend, adopted son, sommelier and controversial character. As loved as hated. Thanks to his influence, La Tasquita is what it is.
- Carlos Garaicoa : friend, neighbor and one of the great exponents of Cuban and universal culture.
At the Jose Alfredo bar you can find Chema Madoz enjoying a drink
THE USUALS MAKE THEIR RECOMMENDATIONS
Chema Madoz
To meet up with friends, the ** Club Matador ** (Calle de la Cruz, 39) . For a simple meal, the restaurant Clarita (Lower Sliding of San Pablo, 19) . to have a drink, Jose Alfredo (Silva, 22) and to browse, the new ones that are opening by the Rastro.
La Ardosa tavern is one of Fernando Bellver's favorite taverns
Fernando Bellver
To meet up with friends, the ** La Ardosa ** tavern (Colón, 13). to eat, The Tasquita in front (Crossbow, 6) . To drink, the cocktail bar ** Cock ** (Reina, 16) and to browse, Calle Fuencarral.
Juanjo López, owner of La Tasquita de Enfrente, with one of his regular customers Risto Mejide
Risto Mejide
In Madrid I always move in a trio that never fails: Kabuki (Av del Presidente Carmona, 2), seems to me the best Asian in Madrid; the ** Urban hotel ** (Carrera de San Jerónimo, 34) and its restaurant ** Europa Decó **, and of course, ** La Tasquita de Enfrente **.
This article has been published in number 73 of Conde Nast Traveler magazine.
*You may also be interested...
- 100 things about Madrid you should know
- "Madrid goes from the most avant-garde to the most stale", the recommendations of Topacio Fresh
- The best omelette in Madrid
- Guide to Madrid
- Meet the best restaurants in Madrid
The Urban hotel in Madrid is one of the favorite corners of Risto Mejide