Torre de Reixes or Barranc d'Aigües
Few moments are as pleasant as coming across a sunny winter morning. One of those in which the Star King looks radiant, warm and proud. A feeling that improves substantially if he accompanies us the always necessary presence of the sea.
There must be some skin inside of those born and raised near the sea who, when we are torn away from him, by our own will or by someone else, he continues to exercise a powerful influence over us. We always need to return to feel at home, even if we are many kilometers away from it.
The young and coastal municipality of El Campello, emancipated from the city of Alicante at the beginning of the 20th century , is, on its own merits, one of the ideal enclaves for this reunion.
Known for being a summer destination, a time when its population triples, it does not leave indifferent the traveler who, in the winter months, seeks reconcile with the tranquility, the Mediterranean rhythm of life and with an important legacy of our history.
El Campello in winter: just for you
THE MOORISH QUEEN WHO BATHED WITH ROMAN FISHES
Last November, In the local site of Illeta dels Banyets, the first pitch oven from the Iberian period in the Peninsula was documented, thus reinforcing the great importance of this archaeological enclave which, despite its small size, has a wide cultural sequence.
Visiting Illeta is one of the obligatory and most satisfying activities that the cultural visitor can carry out in El Campello. This piece of land was, formerly, a small peninsula that, over the millennia, ended up becoming an island, from which it receives its name, becoming the ideal place to take advantage of the rich marine resources offered by this part of the coast and control its commercial or defensive activities.
In 1943, an artificial isthmus was built – perhaps not in the most respectful way with the site itself – to provide shelter for fishing boats. A guided tour of its archaeological remains will take us on a journey to the Bronze Age, the Iberian era and Ancient Rome. In fact, its name comes from the fish farms that date from this last period.
The famous Banyets de la Reina
Although if we go to what the legends tell, we will come across the story of an ancient Arabian queen bathing in that strange nook of carved rocks. Hence they are also known by the name of Banyets of the Queen.
Nowadays, these old fish farms are frequented in the summer by bathers, however, during the winter, when the sea water is too cold to soak in, it becomes the best viewpoint to watch the sunrise and sunset.
Illeta dels Banyets
ON BOARDING!
Always linked with what comes from the sea, the area, like the entire coast of Alicante, suffered constant attacks by Barbary pirates, who dedicated themselves to looting, destroying everything in their path and frightening the population. To protect themselves from them, in the 16th century, the construction of a system of watchtowers that are still standing.
With the arrival of the 60s, another invasion, but in this case tourist, assaulted, again, the Alicante coast and El Campello was no exception.
Tourism increased urban pressure and in that same decade a permit was granted to build ten buildings spread between the archaeological site and the nearby coast, coming to rise the frame of one of them next to the Illeta Watchtower. The one that served, precisely, to protect the coast from any type of attack.
After years of paralysis, the building was demolished and the declaration of archaeological protection of the Illeta complex and the tower.
Illeta Tower
The Torre de Reixes or Barranc d'Aigües was, like that of Illeta, built in the second half of the 16th century as part of the anti-piracy network. This, however, is a little further from the population center, so to get there you will have to continue a hiking route of low difficulty, through a protected area of great scenic beauty.
Upon reaching the top, where the defensive construction is located, the panoramic view of the sea is amazing. Another ideal place to contemplate, in this case from above, the daily farewell to the sun.
The Roman ruins of the Baths of the Queen
"EL CAMPELLO, SUN AND CALDERO"
One enters the province of Alicante always accompanied by suggestive thoughts related to good eating. And, a few kilometers from the capital, Surrounded by the tranquility that El Campello offers in the winter season, gastronomy becomes a reason in itself to travel to its shores.
Blessed by an enviable climate –even nostalgic for a Mediterranean spirit settled on the plateau– and kissing daily with the saline tongues of the sea, this town with a long fishing tradition still maintains a custom that has been lost in many other towns and whose main stage is the Lonja de El Campello.
Around 17:30 in the afternoon, the campelleras boats return to port after the day's work. That is when, from Monday to Friday, the fish market becomes a meeting point for seekers of the freshest fish without an intermediary. They arrive at this building quantities of fish and shellfish that go directly from the boats to the final customer.
The marina of El Campello with the Illeta Watchtower in the background
The famous El Campello fish auction has been held since 1991. It is the local fishermen themselves who have been responsible for maintaining the tradition, this being one of the few markets in Spain where you can still buy the freshest fish of the day directly from the boat that brought it.
A downward bid, open to the general public and maintaining the traditional form; where The figure of the auctioneer is preserved, who dressed in his white coat, is in charge of calling the prices with an amazing verbal speed and of controlling the development of the event, in which local citizens, foreigners and restaurant owners meet. All expectant before the decrease in the price of the object of their desire.
Whether before or after the auction, one feels an almost moral obligation to try the local fish. People from Alicante often boast of preparing the best rice dishes of the “món”, either in a Campellero cauldron, –a local traditional dish, which owes its name to the container in which it is cooked and has rock fish, ñoras, potatoes and rice among its ingredients– arroz a banda or arroz caldoso, like the one at Restaurante La Cova, with monkfish, prawns, clams and onion: a generous, tasty and accurate dish.
Located on the heights, on a promontory where you can still see the caves that were inhabited for a long time, and to which it honors with its name, La Cova combines an extensive panoramic view of celestial and maritime blues with the good work of traditional local cuisine. Lovers of salted meats that do not stop asking about the Alicante salad.
The promenade of El Campello is, as is often the case in this type of town, the meeting point to enjoy the people, the bars and the restaurants, from which to enjoy the delicacies of the land and the sea, with the beach just a few steps away.
Example of this is Six Pearls, opened in 1977, which fed numerous nationally and internationally renowned artists –and their teams–, such as Ray Charles, Louis Armstrong, Lola Flores, Julio Iglesias or the almost countryman Camilo Sesto; during the years in which El Campello shone with its own light El Gallo Rojo, considered the best nightclub in Europe.
The Seis Perlas Restaurant has, possibly, the luckiest terrace of all those that extend along this maritime avenue. Large and with a glazed area, it acts as a small paradise on earth, especially on those winter days of generous sunshine.
The restaurant, a family tradition, recently celebrated its fortieth anniversary and they have made their menu versatile, taking it to a more fun point, maintaining the philosophy of Mediterranean cuisine that has accompanied the restaurant throughout all its years of existence.
Vanguard, surprise and fun are three words that accompany the Brel Restaurant, which many know as Brel Pizzeria, since, in its beginnings, it started as such.
Brel is an unexpected encounter with gastronomy, recognized by the Michelin Guide with a Bib Gourmand. After several generational portfolio transfers, Brel ceased to be that family pizzeria and was transformed.
From the hand of Gregory, Jordi and Pamela Rome, and without letting those pizzas decay, a haute cuisine restaurant emerged with the intention and ability to surprise and enthuse. Also located on the promenade of El Campello, the Brel tables attend daily a waste of great products and risky and seductive combinations.
In its menu, classic pizzas and pastas coexist with ceviches, allioli and dishes as surprising as the pilpil cod with nougat or the lasagna by Gregory Rome.
And, for dessert, how about a chocolate soufflé with carob and tiger nut ice cream? They already say it on their website: "We are Brel, we are sea, wind, salt, fire, steam and storm. Subtle lines, fun and surprise."