Restaurant of the week: TrasTO's traveling tapas

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Marmitako de bonito in the TrasTO way.

Marmitako de bonito in the TrasTO way.

They have not stood still in the TrasTO restaurant in Valladolid in the face of the new challenges facing the restaurant sector in our country. And it is not only that they quickly set up a pleasant terrace –in the central Menéndez Pelayo street, on the corner of Santa María– or that their delivery and take away service arrived in the city when it was most needed, but that have devised a fresh, simple and attractive Tapas Menu to encourage the people of Valladolid to return to their premises and thus enjoy in situ the traveling cuisine of Teo Rodríguez.

Steak tartare made on marrow roasted on the coals of TrasTO.

Steak tartare made on marrow roasted on the coals of TrasTO.

Because, as Darwin already said, the one that best adapts to the environment survives, and in Valladolid they like tapas, and a lot; also that they surprise you with new flavors without losing sight of the local product . For this reason, once again, the TrasTO chef has succeeded with his culinary alchemy in combining all these things in a menu of eight bites in which to find dishes as round as a tempura prawn on a 'shiso' leaf, mango and pickled red onion, a pan-fried Castilian soup with black garlic, egg yolk and ham or a humita ravioli, foie cream and toasted corn bechamel.

These are uncertain times to walk like a headless chicken, lurching to one side and the other, which is why in TrasTo the chicken does have a head, one in the shape of an artichoke, emblem and logo of the restaurant which seems to remind us that what we must never lose sight of is the quality product. Like that intense flavor of local cheese that we immediately detect in its creamy (and already famous) cheesecake.

Room of the TrasTO restaurant in Valladolid.

Room of the TrasTO restaurant, in Valladolid.

Do you need another compelling reason to encourage you to reserve a table in this sophisticated environment where wood, gray and black coexist in quasi-Nordic harmony? As well, His name is Ángel Alba Lolo and he has just arrived at TrasTO to challenge us in the room with the wines. And I say challenge ourselves because for those of us who like to mess around, there is nothing that arouses our attention (and smell and taste!) more than a sommelier who asks us in the very center of Valladolid what we think of the wines of sherry.

We only have to pick up the glove and leave in theirs a marvelous pairing in which the same thing whets your appetite with a fruity and sparkling Grandin Grande Reserve Brut Rosé, which tempts you with a white Louro aging from the Godello grape or a fine red Cepa Gavilán, before conquering you completely with a complex Hidalgo Oloroso Seco Villapanés.

Those who prefer to throw themselves fully into the traveling adventure that is TrasTo's menu will come across dishes as suggestive as grilled shrimp, Laguna peas, buffalo stracciatella and strawberries; the Singapore Mussels laksa, rossejats noodles and radishes; the steak tartar prepared on grilled marrow or the beef rib cooked twice, causa limeña, xnipec and its garden.

Castilian pan-frying soup with black garlic yolk and ham in TrasTO.

Castilian pan-frying soup with black garlic, egg yolk and ham, at TrasTO.

Address: Menéndez Pelayo, corner of Santa María street See map

Telephone: 983 455 090

Schedule: From Wednesday to Saturday: from 12:30 to 5:00 p.m. and from 8:30 p.m. to 12:30 a.m. / Sundays: from 12:30 to 5:00 p.m.

Half price: Tapas Menu: €30

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