A river cruise allows you to marvel at this wonder of nature
In Iberian geography, that corner fragment of the European continent that we Portuguese and Spanish share, there is an exact point that is the same distance from Porto, Lisbon and Madrid: The Beira Baixa.
Something like a navel that could unite the three cities, located in the center of the neighboring country. A place where water reigns. Although not the Atlantic, salty, brave and persecuted by surfers , bathers and travelers with a seafaring soul, in general; otherwise sweet, flowy and always flanked by formidable landscapes and transported by rivers Block - Yew in Portuguese territory, Zêzere, Ocreza, Ponsul , which split, in their path and their weight, the fertile region through which they pass.
The formidable landscape created by the Ocreza River as it passes through Beira Baixa
Crossing its landscapes by road, one realizes that these could be greener, or more ocher -if visited in the autumn season-, and, on the other hand, a tremendous gray, blackish and ashen stain attract our eyes between the slopes of the mountains and the naked and trembling skeletons of what, not so long ago, were leafy trees.
Today, they remain as a sinister memory of the very serious fires that the area suffered in 2017 . There they continue, recounting what the fire did in that land where, paradoxically, water abounds. Trying to overcome this, and bounded on the north by the Serra da Gardunha and in the south by the Alentejo plain, the Beira Baixa, near the border that separates Spain and Portugal , usually goes unnoticed. And, on the other hand, there it is, in full view of the whole world, being more a place of passage than one in which to stay. It's time to change it.
It would be better to dedicate more than three days of our lives Any less would be taking away hours of wonderful sensory experiences that go through being amazed at the immensity of the Tagus escarpment or the powerful and unexpected gastronomy of the area.
Idanha-a-Velha It is our first stop and, there, one of the most curious stories of all those that the Gothic kings gave and that has to do with the King Wamba.
Rhodao gates
In Ródão Gates , in front of King Wamba's Castle , the last of these great monarchs, we know the tragic legend that surrounds him. One who talks about forbidden love, betrayal and revenge , because the queen consort fell in love with another king, and he dug a tunnel under the Tagus so that his beloved could flee with him. But the story did not end well for anyone, as you might imagine. Wamba caught them and there was fury with the lovers. These stories always end badly.
Right there, looking up at the sky, one can stand in awe watching the spotted vultures doing his aerial dance and, directing the eyes downwards, in the Portas de Ródão Natural Monument , the shocking image of that immense abyss that the Tagus has traversed for nearly 2.6 million years, when its waters began to erode the territory.
To continue feeling tiny and lucky in such an enclave, a river cruise is advisable. A walk flanked by the valley and by the unexpected luck of finding ourselves in a place where more than 20,000 rock art engravings on both sides of the river , sample of the early occupation by the human being.
Many of these prehistoric remains are currently under the waters of the river, so a visit to the **Centro de Arte Rupestrian del Tajo - CIART ** serves as reinforcement and clarification to better understand what happened in this valley in cave times.
Castelo Branco
Much less back in time the ride takes us by Castelo Branco , the capital par excellence of Beira Baixa. Neither too big nor too small, it is the kind of city that hides more than it seems at first glance.
It is a population whose origin is associated with the Order of the Templars . since its border location was ideal for settling down. Are its castle and its walls There are still vestiges of that time, although, currently, only some parts remain in ruins, you can climb one of the towers that still survives and enjoy a splendid panoramic view of the city and the valleys that surround it.
Once seen from above, it is time to go back down and wander through its streets. Particularly noteworthy is the Jewish quarter , through the old town and where you can still find various Jewish symbolic vestiges, including a Menorah and a Mezuzah.
To sprinkle pastel colors on the walk, the Castelo Branco Embroidery Interpretation Center , aims to contribute to its revaluation and recovery as a form of artistic expression without equal. Furthermore, it is a museum space which also hosts the Castelo Branco Embroidery Workshop-School , which brings together some of the most expert embroiderers and artificers of the pieces of genuine Castelo Branco embroidery.
Episcopal Palace Gardens
The Episcopal Palace Gardens are undoubtedly one of the reasons why to visit Castelo Branco . Created in the XVII century next to the palace. Originally, it served as a place of rest and recreation for the bishop and his court; Today, it is still a place to go for a walk and, of course, to recreate the view , for example, to sunset.
The route continues through appalachians . But how? Appalachians have you read? Nobody talked about crossing the ocean to American lands. Tranquility in the masses, that it will not be necessary to do it. Just go to the neighbor Oleiros.
There, they want to show the world that one of the longest roads in the world, that 3,500 kilometer long trail that crosses North America , do the same, also in the ocean and have an entry point there, in the Naturtejo Geopark . A path not as long as the one on the American side, but which follows the mountainous area of the municipality of Oleiros and extends through Spain and France, too.
If the municipality of Oleiros is really recognized for something, it is for its gastronomy. And, more specifically, for a dish in question: the stunned kid . An intense dish in the animal is prepared in a similar way to suckling pig roast , cooking slowly and giving it a last arreón to get the skin crispy and, in turn, keep the juiciness and flavor of the interior.
A good place to try it is Adega dos Apalaches, in Oleiros, Castelo Branco. Wash it down with a good Portuguese wine and enjoy having chosen the Beira-Baixa for this getaway. And then rest in Hotel Rainha d'Amélia , in the heart of Oleiros. Say hello!