Pontevedra, model of sustainable urbanism
The commonly accepted truth that the best way to get to know a city is by walking turns into Pontevedra something more than a cliché; it is a necessity.
Small, flat and with almost all of its historic center pedestrianized, here it is necessary to leave the car to the side to go through lively squares, stone arcades and silent corners until you end up discovering, step by step, a city that could be ripped from the pages of a 19th century bourgeois novel.
Views of Tambo Island from Punta de Samieira in Poio
** UN Award for the most comfortable European city to live in**, award for urban design and planning in Hong Kong, award from the Spanish Confederation of People with Disabilities for the best local accessibility action… urban reconversion that Pontevedra has experienced in the last 15 years has made it an international benchmark.
The once very controversial pedestrianization of the historic center managed to transform that somewhat sordid and almost empty night refuge area during the day into a bustle of movement, with children playing on the terraces and visitors admiring the stately facades.
Over the years, success brought the pedestrianization to other streets , but it is through the old town where the star route that every traveler must take extends.
Firewood Square in Pontevedra
Those who do not know much about Pontevedra say finish surprised at the charm it displays . Between Ironworks Square and the Basilica of Santa Maria , pristine streets lead to churches that preserve their seafaring and commercial past.
Squares such as Leña, Verdura or Mugartegui invite you to evoke historical figures who left their mark here, from Valle-Inclan to the pirate Benito Soto . The turn-of-the-century bourgeois city, of literary circles, painters and intellectuals, is still alive in historic cafes such as the Carabela, the Savoy or the Café Moderno.
Rua do Duque de Tetuan
If at any time it rains –after all, we are in Galicia– the arcades are not the only shelter . Pontevedra has one of the oldest municipal museums and with more funds in Spain.
In the Sixth Building , in addition to temporary exhibitions, highlights include the collection of prehistoric goldsmithing, the work of Castelao –with his overwhelming engravings on the Civil War inspired by Goya– or the room dedicated to the child prodigy of the early 20th century and ill-fated violinist Manuel Quiroga.
The ground floor of the Museum houses the overseas , the atlantic tavern of the star Xosé Cannas –Pepe Vieira –, an essential stop either for an aperitif on its terrace or to enjoy its eclectic menu.
Caricature of Castelao in the Museum of Pontevedra
The unredeemed walker who is looking for a green environment after so much weight of History has the Parque de la Island of Sculptures . once a semi-abandoned junquera , today is the place to play sports among Galician granite sculptures made by international artists.
“to illa” , between domesticated and wild, invites you to get lost along the trails watching the canoeists who go up the river course.
You can also opt for the opposite: follow the descent of the river looking for the point where the water changes from fresh to salty and the tides begin to be felt. A promenade and a bike lane run along this route , overlooking the Tambo Military Island, dodging fishermen and spotting the shellfish gatherers of Lourizan.
Lourizan Gardens
It is precisely there where one of the essential points for the nature lover is found: the gardens of Lourizán and the Pazo de Montero Ríos.
The site is a curious mix between a story garden , a place of learning – it houses an environmental and forestry research center – and a relic of past splendor. Galician politician Montero Rios acquired the building in the 19th century as a summer residence. With its privileged views over the estuary, the manor housed personalities of the time and witnessed some of the goings-on of the Restoration.
Its current state, pending rehabilitation, gives it a melancholic air to the garden, where trees from all latitudes grow among the modernist statues, the dovecote, the greenhouse or the building's galleries.
One of the most recognizable shop windows in Pontevedra
But a tour of idyllic gardens It would not be complete without approaching ** Meis, the Pazo de la Saleta,** the next open secret 20 kilometers from Pontevedra.
Which, according to UNESCO, is “one of the most important private botanical collections in Spain” It was born from the efforts of Robert and Margaret Gimson, an English couple who settled in Galicia at the end of the 60s and dedicated themselves to planting species from all over the world.
Today they are Blanca Coladas and her daughter Silvia Rodríguez who continue this legacy by increasing the species and, best of all, opening it to the public.
Until a couple of years ago – when it was included in the Camellia Route – was visited almost exclusively by foreign connoisseurs and lovers of gardening –among them the architect of the Agnelli or owners of castles on the Loire –. The camellias, which fill winter with color, are precisely its main attraction.
But the garden contains enough treasures to make a visit worthwhile in all seasons: in summer the light enhances the colours, in autumn the little-known camellia sasanqua and in spring… do you really need reasons to visit a garden in spring?
Blanca Colada, owner of Pazo de la Saleta in Meis
WHERE TO EAT
overseas _(Rúa Padre Amoedo Carballo, 3; tel. 986 85 72 66) _. International elaborations with local product.
Eirado gives Firewood (Praza da Leña, 3; tel. 986 86 02 25). Creative cuisine in a charming locale.
Bagos wine cellar _(rúa Michelena, 20; tel. 986 85 24 60) _. Great cellar and amazing tapas.
the skinny _(Rúa Alta, 3-5; tel. 665 31 13 32) _. Incombustible classic of pecking.
** Jaqueyvi ** (Rúa de Dona Tareixa, 1; tel. 986 86 18 20) . Its potato omelette is essential.
streets (Rua Sarmiento, 20; tel. 986 84 64 16). Excellent location between Plaza de la Verdura and Plaza de la Leña.
Around:
plaice house (Avenida de Sineiro, 7, San Salvador de Poio; tel. 986 87 28 84) . Perhaps the best representative of new Galician cuisine.
Pepe Vieira Camiño da Serpe _(Camiño da Serpe, s/n, Poio; tel. 986 74 13 78) _. Tasting menus and views over the estuary.
new strain _(Camino del Penedo, 4, Poio; tel. 986 77 09 13) _. Excellent seafood (their scallops are a must) with great views.
The Atlantic tavern by Xosé Cannas
WHERE TO SLEEP
Casa do Baron Parador _(rúa do Barón, 19; tel. 986 85 58 00; HD: from €80) _. Renaissance palace in the heart of the old town.
Novavila Design Wine Hotel _(Arcos; tel. 986 168 328. HD: €175) _. Just ten minutes from the city, this wine tourism center is much more than a hotel. Together with pieces of contemporary design and in the midst of the captivating nature of the Rías Baixas, you can taste the Albariño and the sparkling rosé from their own cellar or get a booty of local products in their store.
WHERE TO BUY
Reedbed (Pilgrim Street, 9, tel. 986 86 16 12). Edible souvenirs.
King Zentolo _(Praza da Peregrina, 2; tel. 986 84 83 80) _. Galician pop designs.
Real street basketry _ (Rúa Real, 32; tel. 986 856 080) _. I work in wicker.
The monkey with a hat (Rua Conde de San Román, 17). Charming gifts.
The monkey with a hat
HISTORICAL CAFES
Caravel (Estrela Square, 1).
The recovered Savoy _(Praza Orense, 4) _.
Savoy (Praza de San Xosé, 3). With painter's murals Laxeiro.
WHAT TO VISIT
Museum of Pontevedra (Padre Amoedo Carballo Street, 3). Do not miss the exhibitions of its Sixth Building.
** Pazo de la Saleta ** (Sobreira, Meis; tel. 629 81 68 80; reservation essential) .
This report is published in the May issue of Condé Nast Traveler magazine (number 106) available in its digital version to enjoy on your favorite device. Subscribe to the print edition ( 11 printed issues and a digital version for €24.75, by calling 902 53 55 57 or from our website) and enjoy free access to the digital version of Condé Nast Traveler for iPad.
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Novavila Design Wine Hotel