Much is said about his outward journey, but little (or nothing) about the three that came after
We all have in the imagination the first trip of the Magi, that which, after sighting a star in the heavens, undertake from the East to Bethlehem. We remember less of the second, the one back home by a different path from the one they had come by, thus misleading Herod's henchmen.
And there is also a third trip: the one that, due to the efforts of Saint Helena and her son, the Emperor Constantine, star in the remains of the Magi in the fourth century from the Holy Land to Milan. And still a fourth: the transfer of these remains, these relics, from Milan to Cologne, in 1162.
This reliquary of the Cologne Cathedral contains the remains of Melchor, Gaspar and Baltasar
The order was given by Frederick I Hohenstaufen , Duke of Swabia, known as Barbarossa in the popular imagination and emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. To sum up the events very well, Milan had risen up against the established political order, while Cologne had remained on the emperor's side. It is therefore possible to interpret the translation as a punishment for the Milanese rebels and an award to loyal coloneses.
Today perhaps not, but in the Middle Ages the relics were a political element of the first magnitude. And not only in the Middle Ages. From the twelfth century onwards, the city of Milan would demand time and again from Cologne the return of his stolen treasure.
In 1903 , due to the diplomacy of Cardinal Ferrari, the Cologne Cathedral partially acceded to the request sending back a small sample of those relics to the place where they had rested for centuries: the basilica of San Eustorgio, in Milan.
There, in the darkest corner of the temple, it can be visited today a little chapel – called the Capella dei Maggi – with a fresco of the Adoration of the Magi, a triptych with the same motif, a huge bronze sepulcher where Their Majesties rested before the translatio, a small bronze urn with the result of the good offices of Cardinal Ferrari and, most importantly for the traveler, a suggested itinerary.
Basilica of Sant'Eustorgio, Milan
Typewritten on a page yellowed by the years and framed in a frame like a flea market, the proposal indicates thirteen stages that start in the north of Italy, cross Switzerland, go through Germany following the course of the Rhine river and end in Cologne; the itinerary completed by the pilgrim relics ten centuries ago.
Yes ok there was a time when pilgrims from all over Europe covered the distance between Milan and Cologne dressed in small metal badges pinned to their hats or blankets and strips of paper or parchment with the names of Melchor, Gaspar and Baltasar, as a spell against the dangers of travel, fevers and enchantments, today this is no longer the case.
Unlike other pilgrimages, such as the Jacobean Route or the Via Francigena, the route from Milan to Cologne is not indicated here and there with the figures of the three wise men, Just as the road to Santiago is marked by yellow arrows or the silhouette of a pilgrim, the road from Canterbury to Rome.
Some stages are not even listed on the maps –Grammont abbey, Arisach on the Rhine, Erfel– and in the tourist offices of others –Vercelli, Turin, Monte San Gottardo, Remagen, Mainz...– their managers will put on a face of not knowing what we are talking about.
Signage of the little hotel Tre Re, overlooking Lake Como
And it is good that it is so. In this way, we will celebrate each little discovery with the joy of Heinrich Schliemann when he found Priam's treasure and the remains of the city of Troy. Because the route from Milan to Cologne is strewn with clues.
Thus, in Milan, apart from the Basilica of San Eustorgio, we will find a driving school called Tres Reyes Y a pizzeria with the same name and also a swimming school. And twenty miles to the north, overlooking the Lake Como, there is a little hotel with three stars like three crowns called Tre Re (Three Kings), with a receptionist who tells us that, not far from there, in Grandate , a small town in the mountains, we will find a little street and a sign that reads San Pos, corruption of Sancti Pause, corruption in turn of Sanctorum Pause, that is, Holy Pause. It is therefore about the first stop made by the retinue carrying the relics ten centuries ago.
In Lucerne , Switzerland, in the 11 Haldenstrasse, it's found a little antique dealer specialized in Christmas decorations with an infinity of figurines of the Three Kings. It is run by an older couple. She is an old lady like in a Dickens story and we imagine him working all year in the back room, laughing like this: ho, ho, ho.
By Germany , on the wooden and stone lintels of many houses and businesses, written in chalk, we will get tired of reading some enigmatic inscriptions: 20*C+M+B+20. The number 20 refers to the century, * to the star of the East, C to Caspar, M to Melchor, B to Baltasar and 20 to the coming year; it is an old medieval formula to welcome the new year and ask the Magi to fill it with prosperous blessings.
The Bavarian city of Bamberg
arrived in the city of Bamberg, in its cathedral, we will contemplate equestrian statue of a knight in which tradition has wanted to see since time immemorial one of the three wise men. And finally we reach, on the banks of the Rhine, the city of Cologne, last leg of our journey.
There, in its majestic cathedral, live the protagonists of one of the most beautiful stories ever told, the recipients of letters from our childhood, the years when the lucky little kingdom of playrooms and picture books we would have traded only for a bicycle. Careful not to disturb his sleep, in front of the gold reliquary where they rest, we will pay our respects by kneeling gently on the cold floor of the cathedral.
And, well, if the noise of our footsteps or conversations or the flash of our smartphones wakes them up, they will surely be happy to see us again. Well, if at some point we stop believing in them... they don't believe in us.
PRACTICAL DATA
** INTERRAIL? IF POSSIBLE**
And we who thought that the Interrail was an initiatory and summer experience only reserved for boys and girls recently approved the selectivity... what's up! Interrail does not respect ages or times of the year.
The Bamberg Cathedral Horseman
Our pass was our particular itinerary and with it we traveled through landscapes like those of the little trains with which we woke up on the morning of January 6. It is not possible to rule out meeting on a platform or in a compartment with three gentlemen with wise airs and aristocratic demeanor, whom we would swear to know forever, since childhood. And, when through the running window we see one of those freighters that ply the Rhine full of coal, we will cross our fingers that this is not our Christmas present.
**WHERE TO EAT AND SLEEP LIKE KINGS (MAGI) **
Grand Hotel and Milan
meeting point since 1863 from all over Milan and from the cream of the world's intelligentsia, some of whose most prominent members give their suites their names.
That the place is steeped in history is obvious. Recent renovation works brought to light a wall from Roman times, which can be seen having breakfast or dinner in Don Carlos , The hotel restaurant.
We are not aware that the Three Wise Men stayed here, but there is a leader at the height of his exoticism: Dom Pedro II, Emperor of Brazil. Located in the via Manzoni, a few minutes from the best shops in the city, It is perfect for crossing off the Christmas gift list.
That this place is loaded with history is obvious
Palace View
The best quality certificate is that the owner family – the Passeras – has been in the hotel business for a hundred years, with four establishments in Como, with the Vista Palazzo being the jewel in the crown: five deserved stars followed by an L for Luxury.
To this qualitative advantage with respect to the rest of the hotels in the center we must add a privileged location: overlooking the lake, the historic center behind it and occupying one of the most emblematic buildings in the city.
If the Magi don't leave such a palace in our shoes, at least give us a couple of nights in one of their 18 suites.
The Market Place
Lying inside the citadel of Como, reminiscent of one of those fine Covent Garden venues with a daily supply at Borough Market. Not in vain, Davide Maci, your chef, he trained for years in London.
Simple ingredients, purchased every day in the market and cooked with care. As the thing goes of trips and gifts, The Market Place connects distant worlds in its dishes and offers the possibility of acquiring your gift box.
L'Aria
In the village of blevio , surrounded by mountains in front of the lake and between well-kept gardens is Roccabruna, 19th century villa recently renovated by the Hong Kong chain – shouldn't we say 'hongkonuda'? – Mandarin Oriental.
Its privileged location is a plus
L'Aria is Lake Como MO's modern fine dining restaurant. **Traditional Mediterranean dishes, seasonal products and the know-how of its award-winning chef, Vincenzo Guarino. **
Hotel Montana
"Wait for me at the Montana Hotel." This is what a character in one of Hemingway's short stories says. For once, he's justified in naming a bar after the Toronto Star reporter.
It is not the only attraction of this hotel on the hills of Lucerne: a restaurant with a terrace –Scala–, a kitchen with a restaurant –The Kitchen Club– , jam sessions, well-stocked whiskey and rum cigar lounge, live theater down the halls, and a funicular like a toy to access the lobby from the street.
The director of the Montana, Fritz Erni, Every day he shows up at his work with the illusion of a child on Three Kings morning. And he is not a jerk.
Excelsior Hotel Ernst
any of your luxurious suites It will be our particular Monte del Gozo, because from its windows you can see the most visited and photographed monument in the city, cologne cathedral , final station of our trip.
The few meters that separate the hotel from the cathedral are the recommended minimum distance for those who visit the city, since The traveler will hardly find two places that stimulate the imagination more, recreating the stories that have taken place inside such emblematic buildings.
Have you already written the letter?
Any of its luxurious suites will be our particular Monte del Gozo
***** _This report was published in **number 134 of Condé Nast Traveler Magazine (December)**. Subscribe to the printed edition (11 printed issues and a digital version for €24.75, by calling 902 53 55 57 or from our website). The December issue of Condé Nast Traveler is available in its digital version to enjoy on your preferred device. _