The "mythical" Catalina room: unrecognizable except for the carpet
His name is not trivial. Zalacain , the adventurer protagonist of the novel by Pío Baroja from 1909 , inspired Jesús María Oyarbide to open its doors in 1973 . Fourteen years later, back in 1987, it was the first spanish restaurant which received the coveted award from the French red guide, the t three Michelin stars.
After this golden stage, Zalacaín began a new journey with Luis Garcia Cereceda to the front, who knew how to surround himself with the best in the capital and signed for Custodian Lopez Zamarra as a sommelier and Jose Jimenez Blas as director.
They have overcome great potholes in these 45 years of history , but far from being dejected, this September we have witnessed the rebirth -with more force if possible- of a true benchmark. They have good cuisine, good service and a great story behind it. Why not look for a story-telling around the restaurant?
Starting off by republishing the famous novel by Pío Baroja -with a prologue by lola snows - He wanted to tell a story. What has changed in Zalacaín? Everything and nothing.
Its soul is still intact, but the continent has modernized and adapted to the new times. If something was missing from the restaurant, it was the light . And we talk about the natural light that now filters through every window. Taking this element as a common thread, the restaurant has taken a 180 degree turn to completely renew itself.
The curtains and net curtains s have been replaced by windows through which natural light enters and views of a garden area. The person in charge of interior design has been Rachel Castellanos, from the LaFinca architecture and design team. As restaurant manager, she continues Carmelo Perez , an entire institution as far as room service is concerned. In Julio Miralles kitchen, as executive chef and Antonio Moraleja and Jorge Losa like chefs.
A space of LIGHT in Zalacaín
In the life of the romantic adventurer there were three women, why wouldn't there also be a reference to them in Zalacaín? Catalina, Linda and Rosita . Three roses, one white, one pink and one black, which give the private rooms their name and are now part of the restaurant's new history: in the letters, in the crockery...
the new crockery
And it is that now, after 45 years of history, women have become part of the restaurant. Starting with the signing of Carmen González as director of operations , followed by a hostess who welcomes customers, two more women in the kitchen and a new figure who has surprised everyone who visits them. She is the bartender Fadua Amrani.
Carmen Gonzalez
The young woman goes around the room with a trolley of drinks, meeting the clients, telling stories about the distillates and preparing the cocktails on the spot. With this they have wanted the client, either before the meal or after, to stay as long as she wants.
The wine and champagne cellars have also come out to the room.
Cellars of Zalacain
But, without a doubt, what most worried regulars and new customers was whether the food was going to be the same. Am I going to find spherifications or cooking techniques too modern? They continue with the classic recipe, rooted, respecting it, but introducing small touches of modernity that each dish required. The best? Is that the dishes taste like always.
The classics have always been and will be, the steak tartare with soufflé potatoes that they prepare in front of the customer, the small Don Pio vase (quail eggs, smoked salmon and caviar), lobster salad and Tellagorri cod, among others.
Soufflé potatoes CONTINUE
However, 60 percent of the letter is new. Working on the classic bases and stocks, they have introduced seasonal products: oysters, pigeon, mushrooms, partridge, venison... And one of the innovations that we like the most, the possibility of taking half portions. So you can prepare a small tasting menu to taste.
The time has come to rediscover a classic, are you in? "In the heart of a woman roses sprout, blessed are those who receive them..."
Red mullet with molluscada and smoked leek cream
IN DATA:
Address: Alvarez de Baena, 4
Telephone: 915 61 48 40
Hours: Monday to Friday from 1:15 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. Saturdays from 9:00 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. Sundays closed.