There is no middle ground: either you love it or you hate it
Located in the southernmost point of the norwegian coast, where the north and south sea storms converge, a 34 meter long concrete monolith it appears and disappears like a stranded ghost ship. Or as critics like to say, like a half-wounded sperm whale on the rugged Norwegian coast.
It is assumed that the massive structure of Under, the world's largest underwater restaurant , is built to resist the pressure and impact of the enormous waves of the North Sea.
Bunkered from any external threat, the dining room with five seats underwater for 40 people stands out for its huge window with views to the outside. As the restaurant only serves dinner, it was vitally important to resolve a collateral issue. And it is that when darkness falls at the bottom of the sea, as is logical, nothing can be seen in the depths. That's why, It was decided to put light where there was none with powerful spotlights to illuminate marine life.
Because against all odds, the under restaurant is a reality from March 20, 2019. A year ago it opened its doors with guaranteed media attention and 7,000 online reservations in line.
But, Can a restaurant assume an investment of 7 million euros and survive in the attempt? These are astronomical figures for any restoration entrepreneur if it weren't for public aid from the Norwegian government, that he would not have been able to contribute money from the public coffers if there were no other reason than that of the lucrative luxury gastronomic tourism business.
The idea of create a research lab adjacent with students of the master's degree in coastal ecology of the Norwegian university of Agder was the lifeline to hold on to. With the marine biology study center to analyze the behavior of fish, public investment could not be rejected by the opposition or by any local citizen angry at breaking with the natural form of the coastline.
“It was a brave idea, and they have succeeded,” explains to Traveler.es Bjørn-Steinar Sæther, from the Norwegian Institute for Research in Food, Fisheries and Aquaculture (Nofima).
“We did a brief survey in the area where the restaurant is now located to analyze the potential to attract local wildlife. Regarding the Marine Research Center. As far as I know, this is a restaurant that serves food to diners underwater. It is possible to use the facilities to study the local marine environment and I know that was part of the discussion, but I don't know to what extent it is incorporated in the current concept. It was not necessary to build a fancy restaurant to give importance to the local environment, and a marine research center would probably be different than a restaurant. However, if private investors want the marine environment to be part of the experience they present at the restaurant, as I understand they do at Under, I don't see where the problem is”, he assures..
With certain doubts on the table, but with the green light for the project, the prestigious house of snøhetta architects She was responsible for this magnum opus capable of provoking irrepressible impulses in those who contemplate it. And it is that at first glance you love it or you hate it.
“Under it has been designed with sensitivity to the geographical context and its aquatic neighbours. Over time, the structure will become part of your marine environment, since the roughness of the concrete will function as an artificial reef, welcoming limpets, snails, starfish and algae”, say the builders.
What for some is the culmination of architecture with luxury gastronomy and the wildest nature, for others is the perfect metaphor for the collapse of haute cuisine. There is no invisible thin line here that separates conflicting opinions. The opposite poles are very well defined and do not touch even remotely.
“We are very lucky!” says chef Nicolai Ellitsgaard. “The sea is not only filled with a large number of delicious fish and countless types of shells, but the beaches also offer many interesting ingredients, such as seagrass, sea caterpillars or sea kale. Additionally, the local area is known for its abundant varieties of wild berry mushrooms.”
A glance at the letter confirms this. The Immersion menu consists of 18 delicacies inspired by the best North Sea products for the modest price of 209 euros. With pairing it goes up to 362 euros.
“By focusing on the coexistence of life on land and in the sea, Under proposes a new way of understanding our relationship with our environment. , above the surface, under the water, and alongside marine life,” they say on their website.
It is easy to think that it is a very good proposal to go with children, taking advantage of the unique opportunity to enjoy the marine ecosystem of the Atlantic Ocean. To those who believe that it is a kid friendly restaurant, We must remind them that there is no children's menu and that the little ones must eat the same as their parents. That is to say, the menu of 209 euros with dishes designed for experienced palates.
It is curious to read some of the articles that were published in the Norwegian press a year ago. "The price is worth it? No”, says the Aftenbladets food critic, making it clear that the target audience will be the tourist and not the local customer. The headline of his chronicle leaves no room for error: “Under the sea there is not a restaurant for all audiences”. Whether the critic likes it or not, the prestigious Michelin Guide awarded Under the first star before their first birthday of life.
They hope that the concrete will function as a natural reef
Along these same lines, the most detailed chronicle is signed by the journalist Tia Karlsen. In her article for DN Magazine, she showed her reluctance with the times of austerity that run. “Just a few hundred meters from where Under is located is Lindesnes Havhotell, one of two hotels owned by the family. The synergy effect with guests, staff, and food will likely make the economy stronger. It is possible that we would not have dared to bet so much if Under were alone, ”says one of the owners.
“They have designed a 45 million NOK restaurant and the project borders on gibberish. Opened in 2019, it is a mastodon that belongs to a different world than the small houseboats and boats that would otherwise be seen around the town of Lindesnes.”
The manager of the restaurant assures that since its opening he has witnessed the seals play on the window, birds bursting in looking for their daily prey, colonies of mussels on the bottom, brightly colored fish, schools of herring and lots of algae. Even the dorsal fin of a shark has encircled the area.
A lot of casual movement in a small space that has raised suspicions. “It is not a fact that the local fauna frequents the restaurant at all times (...) However, the sea becomes very busy at dinner time. Light, sound or smell must be used to attract different species."
Trond Rafoss, marine researcher who has collaborated with the project, said in the article for DN Magazine that they've tampered with the ecosystem a bit because animals are good at figuring out where to get food.
"The project does not intend to harm nature in any way," the researcher told the journalist. "But if we don't play with him, we won't get a good result."
Genius or nonsense?